Los Angeles: What to Know Before You Go

The mistake most first-timers make in Los Angeles is treating it like a compact city and trying to cross it several times a day. It's closer to a region than a city: 88 separate cities make up Los Angeles County, and the drive from the beach to Downtown can take an hour. Plan by area, and the city becomes enjoyable instead of exhausting.

How the city is laid out

Downtown sits in the east, with the Arts District and Little Tokyo beside it. Going west, Koreatown, Hollywood and West Hollywood lie along the base of the Santa Monica Mountains, then Beverly Hills, Westwood and finally the coast at Santa Monica and Venice. Malibu runs north along the ocean. The San Fernando Valley, with Universal and the Burbank studios, is over the hills to the north. Our 3-day itinerary takes one area a day.

The car question

Metro rail is better than its reputation. Since 2023 the lines link up under Downtown, the E Line runs to Santa Monica, the B Line to Hollywood and Universal, and in May 2026 the D Line reached Wilshire Boulevard's museum row. Where the trains don't go, rideshare fills the gaps. A rental car still makes sense for Malibu, the canyons and day trips, so many visitors rent for part of a stay. The getting there guide has the details.

Traffic

Weekday rush hours are long, roughly early morning and from mid-afternoon into the evening, and a crash on one freeway ripples across the city. Travel against the flow when you can, and never plan two far-apart sights back to back on a weekday afternoon.

Entry

Visitors from Visa Waiver countries need an approved ESTA before flying; others need a visa. Apply only through the official website, and check the current requirements before you apply.

Money and tipping

Cards work almost everywhere. Tip restaurant staff, bartenders, valet attendants and drivers as you would elsewhere in the US. Sales tax is added at the till.

Safety

Most areas visitors go to are safe, but homelessness is visible in parts of Downtown, Hollywood and Venice. Don't leave anything in sight in a parked car; break-ins at trailheads and beach car parks are common.