What to Wear in San Francisco

Every summer, the souvenir shops at Fisherman's Wharf sell a mountain of "San Francisco" sweatshirts to shivering visitors in shorts. Don't be one of them.

The rule is layers. A typical day might start at 12°C in fog, reach 20°C in the sun in the Mission, and drop sharply again when the wind picks up at the waterfront in the late afternoon. A T-shirt, a warm fleece or jumper and a light windproof jacket, all of which you can peel off and carry, will cover almost any day of the year. The two windiest places visitors go are the Golden Gate Bridge and the ferry to Alcatraz, and on both you'll want the jacket zipped to the chin.

Then there are the hills. Some streets in Russian Hill and Nob Hill are so steep the pavement turns into steps, and the walk up from the Alcatraz dock to the cellhouse is a real climb. Wear flat, comfortable shoes with a decent grip. Heels and flip-flops are a bad idea almost everywhere.

Style here is relaxed, and dressing up usually means a clean pair of jeans. You'll see more fleece vests and trainers in expensive restaurants than anywhere else in America. There are no dress codes at the main sights.

Packing list

• Comfortable walking shoes with grip
• A light windproof or waterproof jacket, in every season
• A warm mid-layer, such as a fleece or wool jumper
• A scarf or buff for the bridge and the ferry
• Sunglasses and sunscreen, since the sun is strong when the fog clears
• A compact umbrella from November to March
• A US plug adapter

Heading inland to Napa or Yosemite in summer? Pack shorts and a hat as well. Our best time to visit guide explains why the weather changes so much in such a short distance.