What to Wear in Edinburgh

Locals have a saying that Edinburgh can deliver all four seasons before lunchtime. An east wind blowing in off the North Sea and the Firth of Forth (sometimes accompanied by a cool sea mist known in Scots as a haar) means a sunny 17°C afternoon in July can turn into a brisk 11°C evening within half an hour.

Why a hooded jacket beats an umbrella

Wind funnelling through the narrow stone closes of the Old Town and across the high North Bridge regularly snaps cheap umbrellas in half. The single best item you can pack for Edinburgh in any month of the year is a breathable, windproof and waterproof jacket with a hood, worn over a merino wool jumper or fleece mid-layer that you can peel off when you step into a warm Victorian pub or museum.

Footwear for cobbles, steep steps and Arthur's Seat

Even if you never leave the city centre, Edinburgh is steep and paved with polished whinstone cobbles and worn sandstone steps (such as Advocate's Close and Radical Road). If you plan to walk up Arthur's Seat, note that the upper rocky ridge is loose volcanic scree and worn stone: wear trail trainers, waterproof walking shoes or sturdy leather ankle boots with deep rubber tread rather than smooth-soled fashion shoes.

Season by season

• Spring and Autumn (April to May, September to October): waterproof ankle boots or trainers, jeans or walking trousers, knitwear layers, a light scarf and a rain shell.
• Summer (June to August): t-shirts and light shirts paired with a warm jumper and rain jacket for breezy evenings (especially if sitting outdoors for two hours after 21:00 at the Castle Esplanade for the August Military Tattoo, where wind chill is sharp).
• Winter (November to March): a warm insulated waterproof coat, thermal base layers, wool hat, gloves, scarf and gripped winter boots, plus a UK three-pin Type G plug adapter. Check seasonal weather before packing.