Downtown Las Vegas Guide: Fremont Street and the Arts District

Downtown is where Las Vegas actually began, and it feels different from the Strip: smaller casinos, lower prices, older neon and more locals. The questions below cover what first-timers usually need to know.

Is Downtown still worth an evening?

Yes, one at least. The Strip is about scale; Downtown is about atmosphere. Come after dark, when the neon is on and the light shows start on the canopy.

What is the Fremont Street Experience?

Five blocks of Fremont Street, closed to traffic and covered by a curved LED canopy about 1,400 feet long. After dark, light and music shows play overhead. Stages have live bands, and street performers work the crowd. The SlotZilla zipline runs under the canopy, either sitting or lying flat "superhero" style. It's crowded and noisy, and that's the point.

Which casinos should I see?

The Golden Nugget, for its pool with a waterslide through a shark tank. The El Cortez, open since 1941, for the old carpet and the low table limits. Circa, the newest, for its huge sportsbook screen and its tiered rooftop pool. East of the canopy, the Fremont East district has cocktail bars and small music venues. These hotels are also the cheaper alternative to the Strip, as our where to stay guide explains.

What is the Neon Museum?

A two-acre yard, the "Boneyard", of signs from demolished casinos and motels: the Stardust, the Moulin Rouge, a giant skull from the Treasure Island. Guided tours explain the design and the history, and some signs are lit at night. Book an evening tour ahead; they sell out.

Is the Mob Museum just for fans?

No. It's one of the best history museums in the city, set in the 1933 federal courthouse, and it tells the story of organised crime and the law in Las Vegas and the US. There's a working speakeasy and distillery in the basement.

What about the Arts District?

Just south of Downtown, the "18b" Arts District has galleries, vintage shops, breweries and some of the city's most interesting restaurants in low-rise buildings. It comes alive on First Friday, a monthly art walk.

How do I get there?

About ten minutes by rideshare from the Strip, or on the Deuce bus. Our itinerary puts it on day two, after Red Rock, so you arrive as the neon comes on.