Rio de Janeiro Beaches Guide: Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon and Beyond

The beach is Rio's living room. Everyone goes, from office workers at lunchtime to families at the weekend, and each stretch of sand has its own crowd. The lifeguard posts, called postos, are numbered, and locals use them as addresses.

Copacabana

Four kilometres of wide sand from Leme to the old fort, backed by the wave-patterned promenade, laid in Portuguese stone in 1906 and widened and redrawn by Roberto Burle Marx around 1970. It's busier and less fashionable than Ipanema, with football and volleyball games, kiosks along the shore and a broader mix of locals and visitors. The Leme end is calmer, and the fishermen's colony near the fort sells the morning catch.

Ipanema

The city's most fashionable beach, with the Dois Irmãos peaks at its western end. Posto 9 draws a young, arty crowd, the area near Farme de Amoedo street is the LGBTQ+ stretch, and the sand around Posto 10 is a little quieter. Our where to stay guide explains which streets behind the beach suit a first stay. Arpoador, the rocky point at the eastern end, is the place for surfers and sunsets.

Leblon

The continuation of Ipanema beyond the canal, quieter and more family-friendly, with the upmarket bars and restaurants of Leblon behind it.

The western beaches

Beyond Barra da Tijuca, Prainha and Grumari are wild, green beaches without buildings, loved by surfers. You'll need a car, an Uber or a tour to get there, and there are few facilities.

How the beach works

Stalls called barracas rent chairs and umbrellas, and bring drinks to you. You pay when you leave. Vendors walk the sand selling everything from mate tea and Biscoito Globo to grilled cheese on a stick and sarongs. Locals bring little more than a canga and some cash, and our what to wear guide lists the rest. Weekend mornings are the busiest. Bathrooms are at the kiosks, and there are showers along the promenade.

Safety and swimming

Bring only a little cash, a phone you can live without and a copy of your passport. Never leave anything unattended while you swim, and keep valuables in sight. The waves can be strong, so swim near a lifeguard post and watch for red flags. After heavy rain, water quality can drop, and the beaches inside the bay, such as Botafogo and Flamengo, are for views, not swimming.