Old City Lanna Temples, the Moat and Doi Suthep

Unlike central Thailand's tall, spire-like prangs, the temples of northern Thailand's Lanna kingdom are defined by low, sweeping multi-tiered dark teak roofs that nearly touch the ground, mythical serpent (naga) and peacock carvings, and massive weathered brick stupas. You can visit the finest city temples on a flat morning walk inside the moat (review temple dress codes first), then dedicate a second morning to the sacred mountain of Doi Suthep rising west of town.

The Big Three temples inside the Old City moat

• Wat Chedi Luang (at the heart of the Old City): begun in 1391 to house the ashes of King Saen Muang Ma's father, its colossal brick stupa once stood over eighty metres tall (and briefly held the Emerald Buddha now in Bangkok) before a 1545 earthquake toppled its upper spire. Walk slowly around the base to see the surviving stucco elephant sculptures emerging from the brickwork, the glittering main assembly hall and the teak-beam Wat Phan Tao right next door.
• Wat Phra Singh (west end of Ratchadamnoen Road): Chiang Mai's most revered monastery, founded in 1345. Head straight past the main hall to the smaller Viharn Lai Kham at the rear, where the revered Phra Buddha Sihing sits surrounded by delicate 19th-century northern wall murals depicting everyday Lanna market scenes, stilt houses and folk tales, alongside a raised wood-and-stucco scripture library (ho trai) designed to protect palm-leaf manuscripts from termites.
• Wat Chiang Man (north-eastern corner of the moat): the oldest temple in Chiang Mai, built by King Mangrai in 1296 on the site of his camp while planning the city. Look behind the main hall for the striking Chang Lom Chedi supported by fifteen life-sized stone elephants, and two miniature ancient relics kept inside the smaller viharn: the crystal Phra Sae Tang Khamani and the carved marble Phra Sila.

Climbing to Wat Pha Lat and Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

High on the forested flank of Doi Suthep mountain (1,073 metres above sea level), Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is the spiritual beacon of northern Thailand. You can reach it either by shared red songthaew truck up the winding road or on foot via the shaded Monk's Trail starting behind Chiang Mai University. Halfway up the trail, a stone waterfall bridge leads into Wat Pha Lat, a tranquil 14th-century jungle monastery of moss-covered stone guardians and trickling streams where pilgrims rested before the final climb. At the top of the mountain, climb the 306 steps flanked by ceramic-scaled naga serpents onto the upper marble terrace (barefoot) to walk clockwise three times around the dazzling copper-and-gold-leaf chedi before stepping out onto the eastern balcony for a panoramic view over Chiang Mai.