What to Wear in Ephesus

Short version: good shoes, a hat, and more water than you think.

The shoes are the part people get wrong. The streets of Ephesus are paved with marble that two thousand years of feet have polished smooth, and parts of the route slope downhill. In smooth-soled sandals it's like walking on a wet kitchen floor. Trainers or walking sandals with a proper tread are what you want.

There's almost no shade on the site, so from April to October bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses and a high-factor sunscreen. Loose cotton or linen is more comfortable than tight sportswear. A light scarf is handy for your neck.

Winter is a different trip. From December to February the site is often cool, windy and sometimes wet, and the marble gets slippery after rain. A warm layer and a waterproof jacket matter more than the hat then. Spring and autumn sit in between: cool at opening time, warm by midday, so dress in layers you can carry. A small backpack beats a shoulder bag, because you want both hands free on the steps of the theatre.

Quick packing list

• Shoes with grip
• Hat and sunglasses
• Sunscreen
• At least a litre of water per person in summer
• A light layer for early mornings in spring and autumn
• A rain jacket in winter
• A scarf if you're visiting a mosque

Dress codes

There isn't one at the ancient city. At the House of the Virgin Mary, which is still a place of prayer, cover your shoulders and knees. At İsa Bey Mosque in Selçuk, women should cover their hair, and everyone takes their shoes off at the door.