Rolling green pastures and jacaranda trees on the western slopes of Haleakala in Upcountry Maui
Maui · United States

Upcountry Maui Drive: Cowboy Town Makawao, Surfing Goat Dairy, Kula & Ocean Vodka

Cruising the cool, pastoral slopes of Haleakala, from stick-doughnuts in cowboy Makawao to goat cheese, lavender and sunset cocktails at Ocean Vodka.

Halfway up the western slopes of Haleakala Volcano, at a cool 600 to 1,200 metres (2,000 to 4,000 feet) elevation where temperatures average a refreshing 21°C (70°F) and purple Jacaranda trees bloom in spring, lies Upcountry Maui (Makawao, Pukalani, Kula and 'Ulupalakua). Because every car descending from Haleakala National Park drives straight down through Upcountry on Highways 377 and 37, combining the crater with a half-day Upcountry farm loop makes an effortless route.

1. Makawao Town ('Paniolo' Cowboy Capital) & 1916 'T. Komoda Store & Bakery'

Start at Baldwin and Makawao Avenues in historic Makawao, a 19th-century Paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) town of wooden false-front plantation stores now housing glassblowers (watch live molten-glass demonstrations inside Hot Island Glass), boutiques and cafés:

  • Arrive Early at 'T. Komoda Store & Bakery' (3674 Baldwin Ave, Closed Wed & Sun): operating since 1916, this family bakery opens early and often sells out by mid-morning. Join the morning queue after Haleakala sunrise for their famous Stick Donuts (glazed doughnuts on a wooden skewer), Guava Malasadas and Cocoa-Butter Cream Puffs.

2. The Kula Farm Loop: Surfing Goat Dairy, Ocean Vodka Lawn & 'Ulupalakua

Drive south along Kula Highway (Highway 37) overlooking a bi-coastal panorama where you can see both the North Shore and South Shore oceans at once:

  1. Kula Botanical Garden, Ali'i Kula Lavender & Kula Bistro: walk among rainbow protea flowers at Kula Botanical Garden, check weekend openings for Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm, and stop for freshly baked pies at Kula Bistro, pizza on the terrace of Kula Lodge or fresh strawberries at Kula Country Farms.
  2. Surfing Goat Dairy & Ocean Organic Farm and Distillery (4051 Omaopio Rd, Kula): visit Surfing Goat Dairy for a dairy tour and a Chevre Flight; then walk next door to Ocean Organic Vodka Distillery, where a grassy lawn overlooks both coastlines with afternoon slack-key guitar music and organic sugarcane cocktails.
  3. 'Ulupalakua Ranch Store & MauiWine (Southern End of Hwy 37): 20 minutes south under giant eucalyptus trees, taste Pineapple Sparkling Wine (Hula o Maui) at MauiWine and try an elk or Maui-cattle burger across the road at the Ulupalakua Ranch Store Grill.

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