The downtown Montreal skyline seen over green trees from Mount Royal

Photo by Jackie Hutchinson on Unsplash

Montreal · Canada

Mount Royal Guide

How to climb the city's mountain, and what you'll find at the top.

Mount Royal is barely a mountain, at a little over 230 metres, but it shapes everything about the city. It's a park, a forest, a Sunday ritual and the best free view in town. These are the questions visitors ask most.

Who designed the park?

Frederick Law Olmsted, the landscape architect of Central Park in New York. Parc du Mont-Royal opened in 1876. Olmsted wanted visitors to feel they were climbing a real mountain, so the main path, Chemin Olmsted, winds up in long, gentle switchbacks through the trees instead of heading straight for the top.

How do we get up on foot?

Two classic routes. From downtown, walk up Peel Street to where it ends at Avenue des Pins, cross over, and take the staircases up the slope. They join Chemin Olmsted, and a final set of wooden steps brings you out at the Kondiaronk Belvedere. Allow 30 to 45 minutes, and it's steep. From the Plateau, start at the George-Étienne Cartier monument on Avenue du Parc and follow the wide gravel path up through the woods. It's longer but gentler. Bus 11 crosses the mountain for anyone who'd rather ride up and walk down.

What's at the top?

The Kondiaronk Belvedere, a broad stone terrace in front of the Mount Royal Chalet, looks straight down over the skyscrapers to the St. Lawrence and, on a clear day, the hills of the Montérégie beyond. It's named after a Wendat chief who helped negotiate the Great Peace of Montreal in 1701. Inside the chalet, look up at the painted panels on Quebec history. A short walk further on is the steel cross, lit at night and visible across the city.

What are the Tam-Tams?

On summer Sundays, from late spring into early autumn, drummers gather around the George-Étienne Cartier monument and play from around midday until dusk. Around them, people dance, sell crafts, picnic, slackline and, up in the trees, stage mock battles with foam swords. It started informally in the 1970s and still is informal: nobody organises it, and it happens anyway.

Is Beaver Lake worth a stop?

Lac aux Castors is a small, shallow lake on the plateau west of the summit, with grass for picnics and a pavilion with a café. In summer families bring pedal cars and footballs. In winter it becomes one of the prettiest skating spots in the city, with skate rental nearby, plus snowshoe and cross-country ski trails in the woods around it.

Can we go in winter?

Yes, and you should. The paths are packed snow and can be icy, so wear proper boots, and consider cleats that slip over them. Our what to wear guide covers the rest.

The mountain slots into the second day of our three-day itinerary, and it pairs naturally with an afternoon in the Plateau, covered in our things to do list.

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