São Paulo Food Guide: What and Where to Eat

Plan your days around meals here: the Mercadão at lunch, Liberdade at the weekend fair, pizza on a Sunday night. Waves of immigrants brought their cuisines, and the city's wealth and size support everything from street stalls to some of the most celebrated restaurants in Latin America.

The Mercadão

The Municipal Market opened in 1933 in a grand hall with stained-glass windows. Come hungry and order the mortadella sandwich, with a startling amount of meat piled inside, or a pastel de bacalhau, a crisp pastry filled with salt cod. Stallholders will offer you tastes of exotic fruit, which can come with a steep price when you buy, so ask first.

Pizza

São Paulo's Italian community made pizza a Sunday-night ritual. Pizzerias serve large, thin pizzas with generous toppings, often shared at the table, and the older places in Bixiga, the old Italian quarter, and Mooca have a following.

Japanese and more

Brazil has the largest community of Japanese descent outside Japan, and Liberdade is its historic heart, with ramen counters, izakayas and a weekend street fair selling gyoza and takoyaki. Sushi here often comes with a Brazilian twist. Lebanese and Syrian immigrants brought esfihas, small open pies, and kibbeh, now everyday fast food.

Brazilian classics

Feijoada, the black bean and pork stew, is served on Wednesdays and Saturdays in many restaurants. Churrascarias bring skewers of grilled meat to your table until you turn your card to red. Corner padarias, or bakeries, serve coffee, pão de queijo and a pressed ham and cheese sandwich from breakfast to late at night.

Bars

Botecos, simple neighbourhood bars, pour chope, a light draught beer, with snacks like coxinhas and pastéis. Vila Madalena and Pinheiros have the densest concentration, which makes them a strong base for food lovers.

Dinner starts late, often after 8.30pm, and the most sought-after restaurants can book up well in advance. Check the bill for the 10 percent service charge.