Seoul Street Food and Markets Guide

Seoul eats out constantly, fast and late. Here is what first-time visitors usually need to know.

Where should I start?

Gwangjang Market, open since 1905 near Jongno 5-ga station and the lunch stop on day two of our itinerary. In the central crossing, women grind soaked mung beans and fry bindaetteok, thick pancakes with pork and kimchi, crisp at the edges. Order mayak gimbap too, small rolls of rice and vegetables whose name means "narcotic", for the mustard sauce. One alley specialises in yukhoe, raw beef with pear and egg yolk. Prices are displayed on boards at each stall; check them before you sit down.

Is Myeongdong worth it for street food?

For the spectacle, yes. From late afternoon, carts line the shopping streets selling tteokbokki (chewy rice cakes in red chilli sauce), gyeranppang (egg bread), grilled cheese skewers and cups of fruit. It is aimed at tourists and prices show it. The Namdaemun Market next door is more everyday, with alleys of knife-cut noodles (kalguksu) and grilled fish.

What about a fish market?

At Noryangjin, you choose live fish, octopus or crab downstairs, then carry it up to a restaurant that slices it as sashimi (hoe) and turns the rest into a spicy stew. Go at lunchtime, when the floor below is still busy with restaurant buyers.

How does Korean barbecue work?

You grill at the table, over charcoal or gas. The classic is samgyeopsal, thick slices of pork belly, which you wrap in lettuce with garlic, green chilli and ssamjang (a thick bean and chilli paste). Staff will often cut the meat for you. The side dishes (banchan) are free and refilled on request. Many barbecue places only serve a minimum of two portions, so solo travellers may be turned away.

What is chimaek?

Chicken and maekju, beer. Korean fried chicken is double-fried and very crisp, either plain or coated in a sticky sweet chilli glaze (yangnyeom). The Seoul way is to have it delivered to a spot in a Han River park on a summer night. Delivery riders will find you.

Anything for a quick breakfast?

Convenience stores are part of the food culture: triangle gimbap, banana milk, and instant noodles cooked at in-store machines. Look for hotteok, sweet pancakes filled with brown sugar and nuts, at street stalls in winter.

Where do locals go at night?

Euljiro, among printing shops and metal workshops, hides bars without signs. Its "Nogari Alley" fills with plastic tables, dried pollack and cheap beer after work. The Mangwon Market near Hongdae is another place for fried chicken and croquettes. Hongdae itself is on our list of things to do.