Seoul

Seoul sits in a bowl of granite mountains, cut in two by the Han River. North of the river is the old capital of the Joseon kings: palace gates, the hanok (traditional tiled houses) of Bukchon, and markets that have fed the city since the early 1900s. South of it is the Seoul of the last fifty years, Gangnam's towers and wide avenues. The fun is in how closely the two sit together. A palace wall runs past a coffee shop in a converted print works, and a market alley of mung bean pancakes opens onto a street of glass office blocks.

It's an easy city to visit. The subway is clean and simple, the streets are safe late at night, and meals are served fast and in generous quantities. Give it at least three days, take each day one district at a time, and leave the evenings free, because Seoul stays up late. Start with our Seoul travel guide.

Almost all long-haul flights land at Incheon, about an hour west of the centre. The AREX airport railway runs to Seoul Station, and limousine buses go to the main hotel districts. Gimpo, closer in, handles domestic flights and short hops to Japan, China and Taiwan. Our getting there guide covers both, plus cards and apps.

Seoul is spread out, so your base matters. Myeongdong and Jongno keep you close to the palaces and markets, Hongdae suits night owls and has the airport train, and Seongsu is for a second visit. We compare the areas, including Gangnam and Itaewon, in our where to stay guide.

Most first trips start with Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung and the lanes of Bukchon, all covered in our palaces guide. For Namsan, Hongdae, Seongsu and the Han River parks, see our things to do list. The DMZ and Suwon's fortress are in our day trips guide.

Eat in markets and in small places with a short menu. At Gwangjang Market, try bindaetteok (crisp mung bean pancakes) and mayak gimbap (small seaweed rolls with a mustard dip). In the evening, find a barbecue place grilling samgyeopsal (pork belly) at the table, then end the night with fried chicken and beer, a pairing Koreans call chimaek. Our street food guide has more.

Seoul became the Joseon capital in 1394, a valley chosen for its mountains and river. The 20th century was brutal: colonial rule from 1910, then a war that left much of the city in ruins, followed by one of the fastest rebuildings anywhere. The palaces are largely careful reconstructions. Confucian habits survived it all: respect for elders, two hands when giving, and the youngest pouring the drinks.