Corniche Ouest, Mamelles Lighthouse, Ngor Island and Les Almadies

Driving or walking northwest from Plateau along the curving cliff road of the Corniche Ouest reveals why Dakar feels like an ocean city. Below the black volcanic basalt columns, Atlantic swells crash against coves lined with baobabs, open-air fitness parks and brightly painted wooden fishing boats.

Soumbédioune, Monument de la Renaissance Africaine and Phare des Mamelles

Your first stop heading up the Corniche is the crescent bay of Soumbédioune. Arrive in the late afternoon when dozens of narrow Lebou wooden pirogues painted in geometric blues, yellows and reds surf through the shorebreak loaded with grouper, tuna and barracuda, right beside the shaded stalls of the Soumbédioune craft village. Continuing north past the striking red-earth contemporary architecture of the Mosquée de la Divinité on the beach at Ouakam, two twin volcanic cones (Les Deux Mamelles) rise 100 metres above the peninsula:

• African Renaissance Monument (Monument de la Renaissance Africaine): climb the monumental stone flight of 198 steps (or take the internal lift inside the statue to the viewing visor in the man's head) beneath the 49-metre bronze monument overlooking the entire peninsula.
• Phare des Mamelles (Mamelles Lighthouse): crowning the higher seaside peak next door since 1894, this historic lighthouse and its cliffside garden terrace offer the finest golden-hour sunset view over the Atlantic and the Pointe des Almadies.

Ngor Island, Plage du Virage and Pointe des Almadies

North of the Mamelles hills, the coast curves around the surf break of Plage du Virage (where boards can be hired on the sand and beachfront cafés serve fresh juices) to the village of Ngor. From the sheltered bay, hop aboard a five-minute motorised pirogue across to Île de Ngor: a tiny, solar-powered island of stone lanes, bougainvillea courtyards, artists' studios and calm swimming coves. Back on the mainland, follow the coastal road west to Pointe des Almadies, the westernmost geographical point of continental Africa, where casual seaside shacks grill fresh sea urchins, prawns and whole fish right above the basalt reef. See our neighbourhood comparison if you want to base yourself by the surf.