What to Eat in Honolulu: Leonard's Malasadas, Marukame Udon, Poke, Shrimp Trucks & Shave Ice

Because Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Filipino and Korean plantation workers mingled with Native Hawaiians on O'ahu in the 1800s and 1900s, Honolulu developed a comforting food culture all its own. Best of all, O'ahu's most legendary food institutions are casual counter-service spots.

1. Five Landmark Honolulu & Waikiki Eats

1. Leonard's Bakery, Hot Portuguese Malasadas (933 Kapahulu Ave): brought to Hawaii from Madeira and the Azores in 1878, a Malasada is a rich egg dough without a hole, fried crisp outside and fluffy inside, then rolled in sugar while hot. Order a mixed box with Original Sugar, Cinnamon Sugar, and Malasada Puffs filled with Haupia (coconut cream), Dobash (chocolate) and Guava.
2. Fresh Sashimi-Grade Ahi Tuna Poke: walk five minutes up Kapahulu Avenue from Leonard's to family-run Ono Seafood (747 Kapahulu Ave) for melt-in-your-mouth Shoyu & Spicy Ahi; visit Off The Hook Poke Market in Manoa for Cold Ginger Ahi; or visit Maguro Brothers and Foodland Farms.
3. Marukame Udon (2310 Kuhio Ave in Waikiki): the queue on Kuhio Avenue moves in 10 minutes. Slide your tray along the open kitchen counter as cooks pull chewy Sanuki-style udon noodles straight from boiling vats into bowls of curry, beef (Nikutama) or dashi broth alongside crispy tempura.
4. Hawaiian Plate Lunch at 1961 Rainbow Drive-In (3308 Kanaina Ave): near Diamond Head, stop for a Mix Plate (BBQ beef, mahi-mahi and gravy chicken with two scoops of rice and macaroni salad) or a Loco Moco (burger patties over rice with gravy and two fried eggs).
5. Spam Musubi & Waiola Shave Ice: grab a warm Spam Musubi (teriyaki Spam on rice wrapped in nori) at Musubi Cafe Iyasume, and fine snow ice at Waiola Shave Ice.

2. North Shore Icons: Giovanni's Shrimp Truck & Waiahole Poi Factory

On your North Shore loop, stop at the 1993 white truck of Giovanni's Shrimp Truck (Kahuku or Hale'iwa, cash only) for shell-on Shrimp Scampi in caramelised garlic butter (or freshwater prawns at Romy's and Fumi's). On the Windward Coast, visit the 1905 Waiahole Poi Factory for the Sweet Lady of Waiahole (warm taro kulolo pudding with haupia coconut ice cream).