Christianshavn Canals, Church of Our Saviour and Christiania

Cross the sliding pedestrian and cycle bridge Inderhavnsbroen from the foot of Nyhavn and the mood immediately slows down. Founded in 1618 by King Christian IV with the help of Dutch engineers as a fortified merchant and naval island, Christianshavn is bisected by the tree-lined Christianshavns Kanal (bordered by Overgaden oven Vandet and Overgaden neden Vandet), where historic timber-framed warehouses, houseboats and waterside cafés feel far more residential than the inner city.

Climbing the spiral spire of the Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke)

Rising above Sankt Annæ Gade is the most dramatic silhouette on the Copenhagen skyline: the baroque Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke), consecrated in 1696 with its black-and-gold external spiral spire added by Lauritz de Thurah in 1752. After admiring the monumental carved wooden organ supported by plaster elephants inside the nave, climb the 400 steps to the top. The final 150 steps wind counter-clockwise around the outside of the spire behind a gilded iron balustrade, narrowing until the staircase runs out directly beneath the four-metre golden globe and figure of Christ at 90 metres above the street. Book a timed climbing slot online ahead of your visit, as capacity on the external stairs is strictly capped.

Walking through Freetown Christiania and along the Stadsgraven ramparts

Two blocks east of the church gates lies Freetown Christiania, established in 1971 when squatters, artists and families moved into the abandoned Bådsmandsstræde military barracks across 84 acres of historic earthen fortifications. Over the past two years, residents have permanently dismantled the old cannabis stalls along Pusher Street and dug up its cobblestones to return the central lane to community arts, music venues (such as The Grey Hall / Den Grå Hal), vegetarian kitchens, skateparks and workshops including the famous Christiania cargo-bike builders. The nicest part of the walk is the peaceful outer footpath winding around the reed-lined water of Stadsgraven (the old outer city moat), where imaginative hand-built timber houses and glass greenhouses sit under willow trees.

North Atlantic House (Nordatlantens Brygge) and Architecture

Back on the main harbour edge beside Inderhavnsbroen, step into Nordatlantens Brygge, a 1767 maritime warehouse showcasing contemporary art and culture from Greenland, the Faroe Islands and Iceland, and walk south along the quay past the circular brick-and-glass bridges of Cirkelbroen (designed by Olafur Eliasson to resemble five overlapping ship masts) and the Danish Architecture Center (BLOX).