The North-East Coast ('Kensington-on-Sea'): Kassiopi, Kalami (The Durrells) and Kerasia

Curving around the north-eastern shoulder of Mount Pantokrator where the Corfu Channel narrows to barely two miles (3.2 kilometres) wide across from the mountains of Albania, the north-eastern coastline between Nissaki, Kalami, Agios Stefanos Sinion and Kassiopi is the most serene, aristocratic corner of Corfu (affectionately nicknamed 'Kensington-on-Sea' for its discreet hillside villas and waterfront fish tavernas). Because this coast is completely sheltered from open Ionian swells, the water over its snow-white limestone pebbles is as flat and clear as a swimming pool.

1. Kassiopi: The 14th-Century Castle & The White-Pebble Coves of Bataria and Pipitos

Thirty-five kilometres north of Corfu Town (1 hour by Green Bus A4 or car), the harbour village of Kassiopi sits where Roman emperors and generals (including Julius Caesar, Mark Antony and Emperor Nero, who sang in front of the altar at the Church of Panagia Kassopitra, built on the site of the ancient Temple of Zeus Kassios) stopped when crossing from Italy:

• Walk the Headland to Bataria, Kanoni & Pipitos Coves: climb first through the olive-shaded 1-kilometer rampart loop of 14th-century Kassiopi Castle, then follow the coastal path around the northern cape to Bataria (Mpataria) and Kanoni Coves, tiny pockets of blinding-white marble pebbles and flat limestone sunbathing slabs looking straight across at the Albanian coast with neon-turquoise water.

2. Kalami Bay (The Durrells' 'White House'), Kerasia & Agios Stefanos Sinion

Ten minutes south of Kassiopi along the winding cliff road lie four consecutive horseshoe bays linked by the coastal Corfu Trail footpath:

1. Kalami & Kouloura: at the southern end of pine-ringed Kalami Bay stands the famous White House, the former fisherman's house where British novelist Lawrence Durrell lived with his wife Nancy in 1937 to 1939 (visited constantly by his younger naturalist brother Gerald Durrell, author of My Family and Other Animals, and American writer Henry Miller), now operating as a wonderful waterside restaurant and guest rooms. Just over the southern ridge lies the circular postcard pine-harbour of Kouloura.
2. Kerasia Beach & Agios Stefanos Sinion: reached by a 20-minute coastal footpath north from Kalami (or by car), Kerasia is one of the finest white-pebble beaches in Greece, where ancient olive trees hang directly over the clear turquoise water beside a single relaxed taverna, followed around the headland by the yacht-filled fishing cove of Agios Stefanos Sinion and the natural wetland lagoon of Erimitis (Avlaki).