Paleokastritsa's 6 Emerald Bays, Sea Caves, 1228 Monastery and Angelokastro

Twenty-three kilometres north-west of Corfu Town (35 minutes by car or frequent Green KTEL Bus A9), the olive-covered mountains drop sheer into the open Ionian Sea around two wooded peninsulas that divide the coastline into six clover-shaped bays of dazzling emerald and cobalt water: Paleokastritsa ('Old Castle'). Celebrated by travel writers since the 19th century (and identified by many Homeric scholars as Scheria, the palace bay of King Alcinous and Princess Nausicaa where shipwrecked Odysseus washed ashore), it is the #1 natural highlight of western Corfu.

1. Comparing the 6 Bays & Taking the 40-Minute Sea-Cave Boat

• Agios Spyridon (The Main Bay) & Agios Petros: the most accessible bay with soft sand and fine pebbles, framed by dramatic cliffs, seaside tavernas and a water-sports jetty, backed across the narrow neck of the peninsula by breezy Agios Petros.
• Alipa, Ampelaki, Platakia & Rovinia (plus Boat-Only Chomi / Paradise Beach): for quieter swimming, walk 5 minutes to sheltered Ampelaki, hike 20 minutes south to the wild white-pebble cove of Rovinia (with its natural rock cave overhang), or hop a water-taxi boat from Alipa harbour to Chomi ('Paradise') Beach, accessible only by boat at the foot of vertical 200-metre white limestone cliffs.
• The 40-Minute Wooden 'Yellow Submarine / Kaiki' Sea Cave Tour : from Agios Spyridon beach or Alipa marina, small open wooden boats depart every 20 minutes to sail right inside the vaulted Nausicaa Cave, St Nicholas Cave and the 'Blue Eye' (Mati) Grotto, where an underwater rock window makes the water glow neon electric blue.

2. The 1228 Monastery of Paleokastritsa, Bella Vista (Lakones) & Angelokastro Castle

1. The Monastery of the Virgin Mary (Panagia Theotokos, Founded 1228): walk or drive 5 minutes up the headland from Agios Spyridon beach into a whitewashed monastery courtyard overflowing with bougainvillea and potted flowers (free admission; modest dress required), inspecting its historic stone olive press and giant whale-bone skeleton.
2. The 'Bella Vista' Viewpoint in Lakones & Angelokastro (305m Cliff Castle): drive 10 minutes up the mountain switchbacks behind Paleokastritsa through the cliff-hanging village of Lakones (pausing at the famous Bella Vista / Golden Fox viewing terraces to photograph all six heart-shaped bays from 300 metres directly above) and continue 4 km to Angelokastro, a sweeping 13th-century Byzantine eagle's-nest castle perched atop a vertical 305-metre rock pinnacle plunging straight into the sea.