Carved stone portal and courtyard arches of a historic Seljuk caravanserai in Denizli
Denizli · Turkey

Akhan Caravanserai, Çardak Han and Çivril's Lake Işıklı

Two royal 13th-century Seljuk caravanserais and the white water-lily meadows of Lake Işıklı in Çivril.

In the 13th century, Denizli stood on the strategic frontier between the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum and the Byzantine Empire, and the royal caravan road connecting Konya to the Aegean ports passed right through the valley. Today, two fortified Seljuk roadside inns survive along the northern and eastern approaches to Denizli, pairing naturally with a detour to the water-lily meadows of Lake Işıklı in Çivril.

1. Akhan Caravanserai (7 km north of downtown Denizli, 1253 to 1254 AD)

Standing directly at the Akhan highway junction where the road to Pamukkale branches off the main route toward Afyon, Akhan Kervansarayı is the westernmost surviving royal Seljuk caravanserai in Anatolia. Built by the Seljuk Governor of Denizli (Ladik), Seyfeddin Karasungur bin Abdullah, during the reign of Sultan İzzeddin Keykavus II, its western and southern exterior walls were clad in gleaming white marble and pale travertine blocks repurposed from nearby Laodicea (hence the name Ak-Han, "White Inn"). Step inside the restored courtyard to inspect the twin geometric stone portals (taçkapı), the elevated two-storey courtyard prayer room (köşk mescit) and the miniature square stone reliefs carved with Seljuk lions, deer, eagles, dragons and fish. Any Pamukkale or Honaz minibus from the Denizli Otogar drops you five minutes' walk from the gate.

2. Çardak Han (55 km east near Çardak Airport, 1230 AD)

Located in Çardak town just five minutes from Denizli Çardak Airport (DNZ) along the D320 highway past Kaklık Cave and Bozkurt, Çardak Kervansarayı (Han-ı Âbâd) was built in 1230 AD under Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad I by his commander Esedüddin Ayaz. Its monumental five-aisled vaulted winter hall is supported by twenty square stone piers carved with twin-bodied lions, bulls' heads and guardian eagles, making it an easy, crowd-free stop before an afternoon flight out of DNZ.

3. Çivril and Lake Işıklı (Işıklı Gölü) water-lily boats

Ninety kilometres northeast of Denizli, where cold karst springs at the foot of Mount Akdağ form the headwaters of the Büyük Menderes River near Bronze Age Beycesultan Mound and Tokalı Canyon, lies Lake Işıklı. From mid-May through July, vast floating meadows of white water lilies (nilüfer çiçekleri) bloom across the shallow surface at sunrise; arrive at Beydilli or Sundurlu villages between 07:30 and 10:30 to hire a licensed local wooden boat among the lotus pads, white pelicans and herons.

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