Antananarivo 3-Day Itinerary: Royal Hills, Markets and Lemurs

Three days in Antananarivo gives you time to experience both the vertical royal ridge of the capital and the green highland countryside surrounding it without rushing through traffic. Before you set out, arrange a car with a local driver through your hotel for the outer excursions on days two and three; see our practical briefing.

Day 1: Haute-Ville Ridge, the Rova, Photography Museum & Isoraka

• Morning: start at the very top of Analamanga hill at the Rova of Antananarivo (Anatirova) when the morning air is clearest. Tour the stone-arcaded Manjakamiadana (Queen's Palace), the timber Tranovola and Besakana houses, the royal chapel and the panoramic terrace overlooking Lake Anosy.
• Midday: walk five minutes down the cobbled ridge past the baroque brick facade of the Andafiavaratra Palace to the Musée de la Photographie de Madagascar in Anjohy; watch its short historical films on 19th-century Madagascar and enjoy lunch on its garden terrace.
• Afternoon: stroll north along the spine of the ridge past Andohalo Cathedral and the cliff-edge missionary churches to the Faravohitra viewpoint, then descend into Antaninarenina.
• Evening: dine in Isoraka on slow-simmered zebu romazava with brèdes mafana and sample single-estate Sambirano dark chocolate.

Day 2: Avenue de l'Indépendance, Analakely Market, Lake Anosy & Lemurs' Park

• Morning: start at the restored 1910 Gare de Soarano and walk south beneath the red-brick colonnades of Avenue de l'Indépendance into the spice, vanilla and woven-raffia pavilions of Analakely Market.
• Midday: pass through the Ambohijatovo tunnel to stroll along the jacaranda-lined shore of heart-shaped Lake Anosy, looking straight back up at the Rova on the cliff above, then grab a light lunch in Isoraka.
• Afternoon: drive 22 kilometres south-west along RN1 to Lemurs' Park on the Katsaoka River for a guided walk alongside free-ranging Coquerel's sifakas, ring-tailed lemurs, chameleons and radiated tortoises.
• Evening: return to Haute-Ville before sunset for an aperitif on a hillside terrace as lights flicker on across the valley floor.

Day 3: UNESCO Royal Hill of Ambohimanga, Parc Tsarasaotra & Artisan Crafts

• Morning: depart after breakfast for the 24-kilometre drive north through terraced rice paddies to the UNESCO-listed Royal Hill of Ambohimanga. Climb through the stone-disc gateway to explore King Andrianampoinimerina's rosewood cabin, the queen's summer pavilions and the cliff-top sacred pools.
• Midday: enjoy a long highland garden lunch near Ambohimanga or in northern Ivandry, trying ravitoto (pork with cassava leaves) and steamed koba peanut-and-banana cake.
• Afternoon: stop at the Parc Tsarasaotra Ramsar bird sanctuary to spot endangered Madagascar pond herons, then browse hand-woven wild silk lamba shawls and marquetry boxes at La Digue Artisan Market on the road toward Ivato Airport.