Royal Hill of Ambohimanga, Lemurs' Park and Highland Food

Two of the finest experiences in the Antananarivo region lie just beyond the city outskirts in opposite directions: the sacred woodland fortress of Ambohimanga to the north and the riverside sanctuary of Lemurs' Park to the south-west. Pairing either excursion with a long highland lunch introduces you to the history, wildlife and flavours of central Madagascar before you fly or drive onward.

The UNESCO-listed Royal Hill of Ambohimanga (24 km north)

Inscribed as Madagascar's first UNESCO Cultural World Heritage site in 2001, the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga (the Blue Hill) is the spiritual birthplace of the Merina kingdom that unified the island under King Andrianampoinimerina in the late 18th century. Unlike the urban Rova of Antananarivo, Ambohimanga survived intact beneath a canopy of native primary forest. You approach on foot through the monumental Ambatomitsangana gateway, where a massive circular granite disc weighing twelve tonnes was rolled into position each night to seal the fortress.

Inside the upper royal enclosure (Rova), defensive walls built from stone blocks bound with lime and egg whites surround three contrasting structures: Mahandrihono, King Andrianampoinimerina's austere 18th-century cabin crafted from solid rosewood without iron nails; Fandriampahalemana, Queen Ranavalona II's two-storey 1871 timber pavilion; and the glass-verandaed Tranoitaratra pavilion. From the northern cliff-top terrace beside the sacred ceremonial pools, you can see across fifty kilometres of rolling highland hills and terraced rice valleys.

Lemurs' Park, Croc Farm and Highland Malagasy Food

Twenty-two kilometres south-west of the capital along Route Nationale 1, Lemurs' Park occupies a five-hectare botanical bend of the Katsaoka River where nine lemur species roam freely through pine, bamboo and tamarin trees. Guided seventy-minute walks bring you within metres of sideways-leaping Coquerel's sifakas, white-furred crowned sifakas, ring-tailed lemurs sunbathing with outstretched arms, black-and-white ruffed lemurs and nocturnal mouse lemurs, alongside chameleons and radiated tortoises. Closer to Ivato Airport, Croc Farm offers an easy two-hour stop among Nile crocodiles, fossa predators and panther chameleons. Back in town, seek out four signature highland flavours:

• Romazava: Madagascar's national dish, a comforting broth of tender zebu beef simmered with ginger, tomatoes and brèdes mafana (paracress leaves whose flower buds create a gentle tingle on the palate), served with red rice and fiery sakay chilli paste.
• Ravitoto sy henakisoa: finely pounded sweet cassava leaves slow-braised with pork and garlic until rich and velvety.
• Koba akondro: dense, nutty slices of ground peanuts, mashed banana, honey and rice flour wrapped in banana leaves and steamed for hours.
• Mofo gasy and ranovola: warm, round rice-flour pancakes griddled in cast-iron moulds at street corners for breakfast, accompanied by ranovola, the toasted golden rice water brewed in the cooking pot.