Gümüşlük Guide: Sunken Ancient Myndos, Rabbit Island and Sunset Fish Tables

Tucked into a double-hooked bay at the far western edge of the Bodrum Peninsula (40 minutes from Bodrum Town by direct white dolmuş minibus), Gümüşlük has retained a bohemian, artistic soul that feels worlds away from the glitzy beach clubs of the northern coast. Because the entire bay sits on top of the protected archaeological ruins of the ancient Carian city of Myndos, large-scale hotel construction has been banned for decades, preserving a low-slung shoreline of tamarisk trees, hand-painted gourd lanterns and pebble-beach fish restaurants.

Wading Across the Sunken Causeway to Rabbit Island (Tavşan Adası)

Separating Gümüşlük's northern and southern coves is Tavşan Adası (Rabbit Island). In the 4th century BC, King Mausolus built a stone breakwater and causeway linking the island to the mainland to shelter his western fleet. Over the centuries, earthquakes caused the coastline to subside by roughly a metre, submerging the ancient stone road just below the surface of the sea:

• Walking through the water: roll your trousers up to your knees (and wear water shoes or strapped sandals, as the ancient stones are uneven) to wade 100 metres straight through ankle-to-shin-deep crystal-clear water onto the island. Look down into the water beside your feet to see cut Hellenistic wall blocks and column drums resting on the seabed.
• The 15-Minute Island Loop: follow the narrow footpath up through wild thyme and olive trees to the summit of Rabbit Island (where resident wild rabbits hop through the grass) for a 360-degree view over the twin bays of Gümüşlük and the Greek islands of Kalymnos and Leros on the western horizon.

The Artisan Market Lane, Eklisia Church and Sunset Fish Tables

Back on the mainland, stroll through the shaded Gümüşlük Handcrafts Bazaar (El Sanatları Çarşısı), where local artisans carve dried calabashes into intricate beaded gourd lamps (kabak lamba) that glow in warm patterns after dark, alongside handmade ceramics and silver jewellery. Two blocks inland stands the restored 400-year-old stone chapel of Eklisia, which hosts intimate classical and jazz concerts during the summer Gümüşlük International Classical Music Festival.

An hour before sunset, pull up a wooden chair at one of the restaurants lining the southern pebble shore (where tables sit six inches from the lapping water). Always walk inside to the chilled glass meze counter and the fresh fish ice bed to confirm the per-kilo price of your sea bass, bream or calamari before ordering.