What to Eat in Çanakkale: Baked Cheese Halva, Vine-Leaf Sardines and Ezine Cheese

Because the cold, low-salinity upper current flowing south from the Black Sea and Sea of Marmara collides inside the Dardanelles Strait with the warm, salty deep counter-current flowing north from the Aegean, the waters right off Çanakkale Harbour are among the richest migratory fish passages in the Mediterranean. Combined with the dairy pastures of Ezine and the olive groves of Mount Ida, the province has a proud culinary repertoire.

1. Peynir Helvası (Çanakkale's Sweet Cheese Halva)

Every morning, fresh unsalted sheep-and-cow's milk cheese curd is melted in copper cauldrons over a low fire, stirred continuously with flour or semolina, sugar and egg yolk until the natural cheese butter separates and forms a soft, golden, thread-like sweet paste. It is sold in two styles: Fırınlanmış (baked in terracotta dishes until caramelised on top and served warm) and Fırınsız (unbaked, soft and fibrous). Step into Kadir Usta (Babalık Peynir Helvacısı, operating since 1979) or Hoşgör right by the Clock Tower.

2. Grilled Dardanelles Sardines (Sardalya)

From June through October, plump silver Dardanelles sardines (sardalya) are at their peak oiliness. Cleaned whole, brushed with fruity olive oil, coarse sea salt and a bay leaf, they are grilled directly over charcoal embers or wrapped in young green grapevine leaves (asma yaprağı) so the fish stays moist and smoky inside.

3. PGI-Protected Ezine Peyniri (Aged White Cheese)

Produced in the pasture triangle of Ezine, Bayramiç and Ayvacık at the foot of Mount Ida using a seasonal blend of sheep's milk, goat's milk and cow's milk aged in brine tins for 8 to 12 months until creamy, buttery and tangy.

4. Tumbi, İskorpit Çorbası, Bayramiç Beyazı and Tomato Jam

At waterfront taverns along the Kordon and down toward Assos, look for local tumbi (bulgur, minced meat, aubergine and parsley patties baked in olive oil), velvety scorpionfish soup (iskorpit çorbası), crispy baby sprats (papalina), fragrant white nectarines (Bayramiç beyazı) and Bozcaada baby-tomato jam cooked with cloves.