Lilongwe

Designated the capital of Malawi in 1975 in place of colonial Zomba, Lilongwe is a city of two distinct halves separated by a green wedge of riverine forest. To the south lies Old Town, a lively network of spice markets, bridges lined with colourful chitenje cloth, tailors and low-slung cafes along the Lilongwe River. Four kilometres north across the Lingadzi River rises the planned 1970s City Centre (Capital Hill), where the marble-domed Parliament Building, Kamuzu Mausoleum and embassy gardens sit under wide canopies of jacaranda and mahogany.

Between the two halves, the 180-hectare Lilongwe Wildlife Centre protects rescued primates and woodland trails, while the beaches of Lake Malawi at Senga Bay lie less than two hours east. Start with our first-timer briefing.

Kamuzu International Airport (LLW) lies 26 kilometres north of central Lilongwe with direct flights from Addis Ababa, Johannesburg, Nairobi, Lusaka and Dar es Salaam, plus domestic hops to Blantyre and Lake Malawi airstrips. Overland travellers also arrive by coach from Lusaka via the Chipata / Mchinji border or from Tanzania in the north. See how to get to Lilongwe.

Lilongwe's neighbourhoods are known by number rather than street name: Area 3 and Area 9 west of Old Town offer established garden lodges and restaurants, while Area 10, Area 12 and Area 43 north of the Wildlife Centre hold tranquil diplomatic guesthouses. We compare the best numbered areas in where to stay in Lilongwe.

Walk the shaded Lingadzi trails and take a behind-the-scenes sanctuary tour at the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre before visiting the Kamuzu Mausoleum and Parliament, cross the river bridge into Old Town Market and Lizulu fabric stalls, spend an afternoon at Kumbali Cultural Village, and take a day trip to Senga Bay on Lake Malawi or Chongoni Rock-Art. See the full list in things to do in Lilongwe.

Malawian dining centres on whole grilled or pan-fried chambo (endemic Lake Malawi tilapia bream) and tiny silver usipa sardines, served with steamed white maize-meal nsima, pumpkin leaves cooked in pounded groundnut flour (nkhwani), spicy nali bird's-eye chilli sauce and cold Kuche Kuche or Carlsberg Green beer. Read where to eat in our food and day trips overview.

Malawi is affectionately known across the continent as the Warm Heart of Africa for the gentle courtesy of its Chewa, Ngoni, Yao and Tumbuka communities. Central Malawi around Lilongwe and Dedza is the heartland of the Chewa people, whose UNESCO-recognised Gule Wamkulu (Great Dance) masked secret society traditions can be seen in carvings, museum displays and cultural village performances.