What to Wear in Budapest

Packing for Budapest comes down to two things visitors often forget: the mandatory gear for the thermal baths (which costs far more to rent or buy at the ticket counter than to bring in your daypack) and shoes that handle both flat Pest boulevards and the steep, polished cobblestones of Castle Hill.

What to pack for the thermal baths

Hungarian bathhouses are strict about hygiene rules on the pool decks, and rental services have largely been replaced by pricey purchase-only items:

• Flip-flops or pool slides: compulsory in every bathhouse the moment you step out of the changing cabins. You will not be allowed onto the pool deck barefoot.
• A microfibre towel: fits easily in a small bag and saves buying a bathhouse towel on the spot.
• A swimming cap: required if you want to use the cooler central lap-swimming pools at Széchenyi, Rudas or Lukács (you do not need a cap for the hot thermal sitting pools or the outdoor adventure whirlpool).
• Swimwear: standard one-piece swimsuits, bikinis, swim trunks or board shorts above the knee. On weekday single-sex thermal days inside the old Ottoman octagon at Rudas, you are given a traditional kötény apron if you wish, though normal swimwear is worn by most visitors, and is compulsory in the co-ed wellness and rooftop sections.

Seasonal clothing and footwear

• Shoes: leave thin heels and slick leather soles in your bag for the evening. Climbing the steps to Fisherman's Bastion, the forest trails of Gellért Hill and the basalt setts of the Jewish Quarter calls for cushioned trainers or rubber-soled boots.
• Winter (November to March): the Danube acts as a wind tunnel between Buda and Pest. Bring a proper insulated coat, thermal base layers, gloves, a scarf and a warm hat, plus a second dry hat or hood for walking back to the metro after a winter soak in the baths.
• Summer (June to August): Pest's stone avenues hold the afternoon heat. Pack linen or light cotton clothing, sunglasses, a sunhat and a refillable bottle (public drinking fountains marked ivókút are dotted across parks and squares).
• Opera, churches and synagogues: the Hungarian State Opera on Andrássy Avenue has no strict black-tie rule, but most locals dress up in smart trousers, a jacket or a dress; avoid shorts and flip-flops. At the Dohány Street Synagogue, shoulders and knees must be covered for both men and women, and men are given a paper kippah at the entrance.