Eastern Crete: Agios Nikolaos (Lake Voulismeni), Elounda and Spinalonga Island

One hour east of Heraklion along the scenic northern coast, the highway curves around the vast, island-dotted amphitheatre of Mirabello Bay, the largest bay in the Greek Islands and the heart of Crete's easternmost region, Lasithi. Protected from waves by the peninsulas of Kolokytha and Spinalonga, this sun-drenched coastline links the charming harbour town of Agios Nikolaos with the luxury bays of Elounda and the poignant island fortress of Spinalonga.

1. Agios Nikolaos & "Bottomless" Lake Voulismeni

Built across hills descending to the western shore of Mirabello Bay, Agios Nikolaos is anchored by one of the most photogenic urban water basins in Greece: Lake Voulismeni. A circular freshwater-and-saltwater karst sinkhole 137 metres wide and plunging 64 metres deep right in the middle of town, ancient myth held that the goddesses Athena and Artemis bathed in its waters, while locals long believed it was bottomless. Walk the cliffside upper park path above the red rock wall of the lake, then follow the coastal promenade past the bronze sculpture of the Horn of Amalthea to sandy Kitroplatia, Ammoudi and Almyros beaches.

2. Elounda, Plaka & Taking the Boat to Spinalonga Island ("The Island")

Drive 10 kilometres north along the dramatic cliff road above the sheltered turquoise lagoon of Elounda to the tiny pebble fishing village of Plaka, which sits just 800 metres across the water from the fortified island of Spinalonga (Kalydon):

• How to Get to Spinalonga (3 Boarding Points): wooden excursion boats depart every 30 minutes from Plaka Pier (the shortest, cheapest 8-minute crossing right across the channel), from Elounda Harbour (20-minute crossing), or on longer half-day cruises from Agios Nikolaos Harbour.
• The History of Spinalonga: carved into an impenetrable island fortress by the Venetians in 1579, Spinalonga later became an Ottoman village in 1715, and from 1903 until 1957 served as Greece's official state leper colony (Hansen's disease settlement), immortalised worldwide in Victoria Hislop's bestselling novel The Island. Walk through the dark Venetian entrance tunnel ("Dante's Gate") to explore the restored main street, hospital buildings, St Panteleimon Church and the upper Mezza Luna battery.
• Swim at Kolokytha Bay: on your way back through Elounda, cross the narrow causeway past the sunken ancient ruins of Olous and the salt pans to swim in the turquoise cove of Kolokytha Beach.