Kreuzberg Guide

Kreuzberg is the district that most visitors imagine when they think of alternative Berlin. It was a walled-in corner of West Berlin, cheap and rough, and drew Turkish families, students, squatters and artists. Today it is lively, creative and quite expensive, but it still mixes cultures in a way that central Mitte does not. It runs into Friedrichshain across the river, and the walk below, about five kilometres with stops, ends at the border between the two.

1. Jewish Museum. Start at the Jewish Museum on Lindenstraße if you want a serious morning first. Otherwise begin at the next stop.
2. Mehringdamm. A long avenue south from Hallesches Tor, known for its fast-food stands. Eat something standing up.
3. Bergmannstraße. Cobbled, tree-lined and full of independent shops, cafés and second-hand bookstores. It is the calm face of Kreuzberg.
4. Viktoriapark. A hillside park with an artificial waterfall and a Prussian monument on top. The summit is one of the few viewpoints in the district.
5. Landwehr Canal. Head east to Fraenkelufer or Paul-Lincke-Ufer, where locals sit on the canal bank in good weather.
6. Kottbusser Tor. Known as Kotti, a busy junction ringed by a concrete housing block. It is gritty, and the heart of the district's Turkish community.
7. Markthalle Neun. A restored nineteenth-century market hall on Eisenbahnstraße. Check the website for its street-food evenings, which draw a crowd.
8. Görlitzer Park. A large park with picnics and barbecues. Dealers approach visitors here, and a polite but firm no is enough.
9. Oberbaum Bridge. Finish on the double-deck brick bridge over the Spree, with an U-Bahn line above the road. East Side Gallery is just beyond; our guide explains the next stage.

When to come and what to skip

Come in the afternoon and stay for dinner, since Kreuzberg is at its best in the evening. The northern streets near the Wall line, around Checkpoint Charlie, are touristy and best skipped. Many places close on Sundays, so plan food accordingly. Kreuzberg is also a strong base for nightlife, covered in our nightlife guide.