What to Wear in Rome

Two things decide your Rome wardrobe: the churches and the cobblestones.

Churches first. St Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums check at the door, and people in shorts, short skirts or sleeveless tops are turned away, even in August. Shoulders and knees need to be covered. Many other churches have the same rule, and some are strict about it. The easy fix is a light scarf or shawl in your bag and trousers or a skirt that reaches the knee. Men in shorts get sent back too.

Then the streets. Much of the centre is paved in sampietrini, small black basalt cobbles that are uneven when dry and slippery when wet. Thin fashion sandals and new shoes are a bad idea. Wear something with a proper sole that you have already walked in; a normal day here covers 12 to 15 km.

In summer, linen and cotton in light colours. The Forum and the Palatine are dusty and shadeless, so a hat matters more than you'd think. Romans rarely wear shorts in town even in heat, but visitors do, and nobody minds outside the churches.

Winter is mild but damp, and old stone buildings can be cold inside. A warm layer and a waterproof jacket are enough most days.

Packing list

• Broken-in walking shoes with grip
• Trousers, a midi skirt or a dress that covers the knee
• A scarf or light shirt to cover your shoulders
• A sun hat and sunscreen from May to September
• A refillable water bottle for the street fountains
• A small umbrella from October to March
• A cross-body bag that zips shut

Large backpacks have to be checked at the Vatican Museums and aren't allowed into the Colosseum, so travel light on those days. The Vatican guide and Colosseum guide have the details.