Colourful colonial baroque houses and churches on Largo do Pelourinho in the UNESCO Historic Centre of Salvador, Bahia, Brazil
Brazil, South America

Salvador

Brazil, South America

Brazil's first colonial capital (1549 to 1763) and the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture, split by a 72-metre cliff between the baroque Pelourinho and the turquoise waters of All Saints' Bay.

Quick decisions

  • How many days? 3 to 4 days for the Upper and Lower City, Barra, Rio Vermelho, and Bonfim; 5 to 6 days to add a boat trip to Ilha dos Frades, Morro de São Paulo, or Praia do Forte.
  • Where should I stay? Barra (near Porto da Barra and the lighthouse) for safe evening walks and beaches; Santo Antônio Além do Carmo for colonial charm; Rio Vermelho for dining and music.
  • Do I need a car? No for the city itself: Uber and 99 are inexpensive and convenient between Pelourinho, Barra, and Bonfim. Rent a car or book a transfer only for the Coconut Coast (Praia do Forte).
  • Best for: Portuguese colonial baroque architecture, Afro-Brazilian music and percussion, acarajé and moqueca gastronomy, bay sunsets, and tropical islands.
  • Before you go: Carry small notes for historic churches and museums, stick to busy squares in Pelourinho before dusk, and book Morro de São Paulo catamarans ahead in summer.
  • Getting around: Ride the 1873 Elevador Lacerda or Plano Inclinado Gonçalves between Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa, and use Uber or Metrô Line 2 from Salvador Airport (SSA).
  • Continue your trip: Pair Salvador with Rio de Janeiro, colonial Ouro Preto via Belo Horizonte, or a catamaran crossing to car-free Morro de São Paulo and Boipeba.

Overview

Founded on 29 March 1549 by Portuguese nobleman Tomé de Sousa as the first capital of colonial Brazil (a role it held until 1763), Salvador da Bahia rises above the entrance to the 1,100-square-kilometre Baía de Todos-os-Santos (All Saints' Bay). Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985 and a UNESCO Creative City of Music in 2015, the city is split dramatically into two levels by an 85-metre tectonic escarpment: the Cidade Alta (Upper City), crowned by the pastel baroque palaces and gilded churches of Pelourinho, and the Cidade Baixa (Lower City), hugging the harbour, markets, and calm bay waters below.

More than any other city in the Americas, Salvador is the cultural heartland of the African diaspora in Brazil. Across its cobblestone squares and oceanfront avenues, seventeenth-century Portuguese stonework meets Yoruba and Fon spiritual traditions, the rhythmic pulse of samba-reggae percussion, capoeira circles, and a culinary heritage built on palm oil (azeite de dendê), coconut milk, and fresh bay prawns.

Getting there

Salvador Deputado Luís Eduardo Magalhães International Airport (SSA) sits 28 kilometres northeast of the historic centre behind a famous 1.5-kilometre tunnel of living bamboo. A free shuttle connects the terminal to Aeroporto Metro Station (Line 2), while Uber and metered taxis reach Rio Vermelho, Barra, or Pelourinho in 30 to 45 minutes.

Where to stay

Most visitors choose between three coastal or historic districts: Barra (for walkable beaches, sunset views at Farol da Barra, and easy transport), Santo Antônio Além do Carmo (the tranquil residential hillside just north of Pelourinho), and Rio Vermelho (the bohemian dining and live-music hub).

Things to do

Start in the UNESCO-listed Historic Centre and Pelourinho to step inside the gold-leaf interior of the Church and Convent of São Francisco, ride the 72-metre Elevador Lacerda down to Mercado Modelo, watch the sun sink into the bay from the 1534 fort at Farol da Barra, and tie a wish ribbon outside the Basilica of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim.

Food and drink

Bahian cuisine is a sensory feast anchored by moqueca baiana (slow-cooked fish or prawn stew in clay pots with coconut milk and golden dendê oil), crispy black-eyed-pea acarajé stuffed with vatapá and dried shrimp, smoky abará steamed in banana leaves, and creamy coconut cocadas.

Culture

On Tuesday evenings (Terça da Bênção), percussion ensembles fill the slopes of Pelourinho after Mass at the black brotherhood Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos, while sunset at the waterfront sculpture park of Solar do Unhão (MAM) brings outdoor jazz and bay breezes.

Weather by month

Salvador is warmest in February, with average highs around 31°C, and coldest in July, when nights drop to about 21°C. May is the wettest month, with rain on about 18 days.

Warmest monthFebruary · 31°C
Coolest nightsJuly · 21°C
Wettest monthMay · 18 rain days
Average temperature and rainfall in Salvador by month
MonthLowRangeHighRainRainy days
Jan24°C30°C63 mm9 d
Feb24°C31°C70 mm10 d
Mar24°C31°C84 mm12 d
Apr24°C30°C112 mm16 d
May23°C28°C126 mm18 d
Jun22°C27°C119 mm17 d
Jul21°C27°C119 mm17 d
Aug21°C27°C98 mm14 d
Sep22°C28°C70 mm10 d
Oct23°C29°C63 mm9 d
Nov23°C30°C63 mm9 d
Dec24°C30°C56 mm8 d

Averages of daily values from 2015 to 2024. Rainy days are days with at least 1 mm of rain. Source: Open-Meteo · Compare destinations by month.

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