
Ayutthaya Day Trip
Ayutthaya was Thailand's capital for four centuries, and its brick temples and headless Buddhas make an easy day trip north of Bangkok.
Ayutthaya was once one of the grandest cities in Asia, the capital of the kingdom of Siam for more than four hundred years. Founded in the fourteenth century on an island at the meeting of three rivers, it grew rich on trade and filled with hundreds of temples and palaces. In the eighteenth century it was sacked by an invading army and abandoned, and today its ruins are a World Heritage site. It lies about an hour and a half north of Bangkok, and makes an excellent day trip.
What happened here
At its height, Ayutthaya was a cosmopolitan city, with merchants and envoys from China, Japan, Persia, Portugal, France and beyond. In 1767 an invading army from the neighbouring kingdom of Burma captured and burned the city, and the court later moved to the south, eventually to Bangkok. The ruins that remain, with their crumbling brick towers and headless Buddha statues, give a vivid sense of what was lost.
The temples to see
Wat Mahathat is famous for a stone Buddha head wrapped in the roots of a banyan tree, a quiet and haunting image. Wat Phra Si Sanphet has three tall bell-shaped towers that were once part of the royal palace temple. Wat Chaiwatthanaram stands beside the river with a Khmer-style central tower and is especially lovely at sunset. Other ruins are spread around the island, and some are free to enter.
Journey to the old capital
Trains run from Bangkok to Ayutthaya in about an hour and a half, and tickets are very cheap. Check which station your train leaves from, because many intercity services now use the large central station in the north. Minivans and buses are also available, and a private driver is the most comfortable choice for a group. See our getting around guide for details.
Getting around the ruins
The historic island is flat and compact, and many visitors rent a bicycle at the station, which is a pleasant way to cover the main sites. Tuk-tuks and songthaews can be hired for a half-day or a full day, and prices should be agreed in advance. A boat tour around the island is another option. In the heat, a car or a tuk-tuk with shade is more comfortable.
Temple etiquette
Many of the ruins are sacred, so dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and do not climb on the structures. Do not pose in front of Buddha images in disrespectful ways, and never sit higher than a Buddha statue. The Buddha head in the tree roots is a place where visitors must not stand with their heads above it.
Elephant rides
You may see elephants offered for rides near the ruins. Animal welfare groups strongly advise against riding them, because the conditions for many working elephants are poor. If you want to see elephants, choose a reputable sanctuary that does not offer rides or shows.
Timing your visit
Start early, because the heat in the middle of the day is fierce and there is little shade. The cool season is the most comfortable, and the wet season can be steamy. Weekdays are quieter than weekends, and the late afternoon light is lovely for photographs.
A sample day
Take an early train, rent a bike or hire a tuk-tuk, see Wat Mahathat and Wat Phra Si Sanphet in the morning, eat lunch by the river and visit Wat Chaiwatthanaram in the afternoon. Return to Bangkok by train or minivan in the evening. It is a full day, but a rewarding one, and a sharp contrast to the modern city.
Combining with other sights
Ayutthaya pairs well with the temples of Bangkok, such as the Grand Palace, because it shows the earlier capital. For a trip on the water, the floating markets are another fine day out.
Attractions to bypass
You do not need to see every ruin, and you can skip the elephant rides. If you are short of time, three temples are enough. Our airport guide and taxi and bus guide help with the journey back after a late train.
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