Wat Pho

Wat Pho is one of the oldest and largest temples in Bangkok, and it feels more relaxed than its neighbour the Grand Palace, just to the north. The complex predates the capital itself, and King Rama I restored it on a grand scale in the 1780s. It is best known for a colossal gilded Buddha lying on its side, but the grounds also hold more than a thousand images, rows of tiled chedis and the country's most famous school of traditional massage.

The Reclining Buddha

The statue is about forty-six metres long and fifteen high, built of brick and plaster and covered in gold leaf, its head resting on one hand. The hall is so narrow that you cannot see the whole figure at once, and instead you walk along its length, taking it in piece by piece. The soles of the feet are inlaid with mother-of-pearl in one hundred and eight auspicious symbols. Along the far wall a row of bronze bowls invites visitors to drop in small coins, and the steady chime is part of the atmosphere.

Chedis, cloisters and courtyards

Beyond the great hall, four tall chedis tiled in different colours honour the first four kings of the Chakri dynasty. Galleries lined with seated Buddhas surround the main chapel, and stone figures of Chinese guardians and scholars stand in the courtyards, carried to Bangkok as ship ballast. Small gardens with miniature trees give the place a calm that the busier temples lack.

The birthplace of Thai massage

Wat Pho has been a centre of learning since the early nineteenth century, when texts on medicine and anatomy were carved into stone and displayed on its walls. The temple still runs a school of traditional medicine, and a massage pavilion operates within the grounds. It is a sound place for a first treatment, though a waiting list builds up by late morning. Our page on Thai massage and spas explains what to expect.

Temple manners

Shoulders and knees must be covered, shoes come off before the halls, and we keep our feet pointing away from any Buddha image when sitting. Do not touch the statues or climb on the bases. Voices are kept low, and photography is permitted in most areas, though signs inside the reclining hall may say otherwise. The full rules are in our notes on temple etiquette and dress.

Choosing the hour

Coach parties tend to arrive in the middle of the morning, and the paving gets very hot by midday. We prefer the opening hour, when the gold is soft and the cloisters are almost empty, or the late afternoon, when the light turns the tiles amber. Allow about an hour and a half for the grounds, longer if a massage is planned, and rest in the covered galleries when the heat builds.

Arriving by river or on foot

The nearest pier is Tha Tien, a short walk from the gate, and it is served by the express boats described on our Chao Phraya River page. The MRT station at Sanam Chai is a few minutes away on foot as well. From Tha Tien a small ferry takes only minutes to cross to Wat Arun, which makes an easy pairing, and the old-town lanes behind the wall hold simple noodle shops for lunch.

Combining the three great temples

Many visitors take the palace in the morning and Wat Pho straight after, since the two are a short walk apart. Our guide to the Grand Palace covers the entrance rules there, and the ferry to Wat Arun completes the circuit. Try not to cram everything into one day in the hot season, since three temples in the sun is plenty.

Wat Pho sits a few minutes' walk from the Grand Palace, so the two pair neatly in one morning. From the temple's river gate a cross-river ferry runs to Wat Arun, and the river boats make an easy way back towards the Skytrain.

Wat Pho also makes a gentle start to a day that continues in the old town, where lunch stalls and cafés sit a short walk from the temple gates.