Chao Phraya River

The Chao Phraya is the river that made Bangkok, and it is still the city's most pleasant road. It winds for about three hundred and seventy kilometres through the plains of central Thailand before reaching the Gulf, and in Bangkok it is wide, busy and lined with temples, old warehouses, hotels and glass towers. A boat ride on it is cheaper, cooler and faster than most taxi rides, and it gives you views that no road can match.

The express boats

Express boats run up and down the river through the day, and they are used by commuters and visitors alike. The boats are identified by coloured flags, and the orange-flag boat is the cheapest and the most useful for sightseeing, stopping at most of the main piers. Fares depend on the distance, and you pay a conductor on board. Check the timetable and the first and last departures, because the service stops in the evening.

The tourist boats

A tourist boat service stops at the major attractions and sells a day pass that lets you get on and off as often as you like. It costs more than an orange-flag ride, but it is easy to use, and the staff speak English. It is a sound choice if you want a simple way to see the main temples and do not mind paying a premium for the convenience.

The piers to know

Sathorn, also called Central Pier, is the main interchange with the Skytrain and a handy starting point. Tha Chang serves the Grand Palace, Tha Tien serves Wat Pho and a ferry to Wat Arun, and Phra Arthit is the quickest way to the Khao San Road area. A pier near Chinatown gives access to Yaowarat.

Cross-river ferries

Small ferries shuttle across the river at many points, and the ride costs only a few baht. They are not a tour, but they are an inexpensive way to feel the river and watch the traffic. Hold on tight when the boat leaves the pier, because the crew works fast, and keep your bag close.

Sunset and dinner cruises

In the evening, many companies run dinner cruises on large decorated boats, with buffets and live music. They are touristy, but the lit temples and the city lights are lovely, and they can suit special occasions. For a cheaper alternative, ride an ordinary boat late in the afternoon and watch the sun go down over the water.

What you will see

From the river you will see temples, old teak houses, rice warehouses, shipping yards and modern hotels, all in a few kilometres. Floating water hyacinth, long-tail boats and barges pushing loads of sand add movement. At the new riverside malls, large terraces face the water, and the views of the old and new skyline are impressive.

Practical tips

Sit on the open deck for the view, but bring sun protection and a hat. Keep valuables close, hold the handrail when moving between decks and mind the gap at piers. Rain showers are common in the wet season, so carry a light jacket. A taxi at rush hour is slower than a boat for most river trips.

Pairing it well

A river day combines naturally with the temples above, and with a ride on the Skytrain to the central pier. The backwater canals of Thonburi are a quiet follow-up, and a rooftop bar by the river is a fine end to the day.

What to skip

You do not need a private boat at a high price, and you can skip touts at the piers who offer special tours. If the queue at one pier is long, walk to the next one, because the boats stop at several piers close together and the walk along the riverfront is pleasant.