Old Town and Khao San Road

The old town of Bangkok, known as Rattanakosin, is the historic heart of the city, and it is far more than the big palace and temples that visitors usually head for. Streets here are lined with shophouses, small temples, antique shops and food stalls, and a short walk can take you from a royal monument to a backpacker bar. It is the best part of the city to explore on foot, ideally in the cooler hours.

Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing

One of the most beautiful temples in the old town is Wat Suthat, with a huge hall that holds one of the largest bronze Buddha images in Thailand. In front of it stands the Giant Swing, a tall red wooden frame that was once used in a Brahmin ceremony in which men swung high to try to catch a bag of coins. The swing is a favourite photograph, and the temple is usually calmer than the palace.

The Golden Mount

The Golden Mount, or Wat Saket, is a man-made hill topped with a golden chedi, and it gives one of the best views of the old town. A spiral path of about three hundred steps winds up through gardens, bells and small shrines, and the climb is gentle enough for most people. It is calmer in the morning and glorious at sunset, and a large fair is held at the temple each year in the cooler season.

Democracy Monument and wide avenues

Rattanakosin Road and Ratchadamnoen Avenue were built in the early twentieth century in a European style, and the broad avenue ends at the Democracy Monument, which marks the change from absolute to constitutional monarchy in 1932. It is not a beautiful monument, but it is a landmark, and the walk from here to the Golden Mount passes interesting shophouses and food stalls.

The riverside at Phra Arthit

On the river side of the district, a quiet street and a small riverside park lie around an old white fort called Phra Sumen. Locals gather here in the evening to exercise and watch the sun set over the water, and there are cafes and bars along the street. It is a pleasant, cooler place to rest after a day of temples, and the boat pier is close.

Khao San Road

Khao San Road is the famous backpacker street, and its name means milled rice, a reminder that it was once a rice market. Today it is lined with bars, hostels, tattoo shops, street stalls and pad Thai vendors, and it is loud, crowded and very busy in the evening. It is a spectacle even if you do not drink, and the stalls selling fried insects and fresh fruit shakes are part of the fun.

A quieter side street

Just behind Khao San Road, Soi Rambuttri is a calmer lane with outdoor cafes and small guesthouses, and it is a more relaxed place for dinner. A small temple stands nearby, and its walls are a peaceful contrast to the bar noise. If you want to stay in the area, ask for a room away from the main street, because the music carries late.

Getting there

There is no train station in the old town, so the simplest way to arrive is by river boat to Phra Arthit pier, or by taxi or ride app. The Chao Phraya River boats are the cheapest and most pleasant option. Taxis can be slow because of the traffic, so allow extra time at rush hour.

When to go

Morning is best for temples and the Golden Mount, because it is cooler and quieter. Khao San Road is best in the evening, when it comes alive, but it can be overwhelming at weekends. A walk along the riverside at sunset is a lovely finish to the day.

Pairing it well

The old town fits neatly with the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, which are a short ride away. For a change of pace, Chinatown lies to the south-east, and the canal boats of Saen Saep start near the Golden Mount.

What to skip

You do not need to buy from touts on Khao San Road, and you can skip any tuk-tuk driver who offers a very cheap tour, because it usually ends at a gem shop.