Khlong Tours

Before it had roads, Bangkok was a city of canals, and the old Venice of the East nickname was not a joke. Many of those waterways survive, especially on the west bank of the river in the district of Thonburi, where narrow khlongs run between wooden houses, temples, gardens and small shops. A boat trip here feels like stepping back into a slower and greener city, and it is only a short ride from the busiest sights.

Long-tail boat trips

The classic way to see the canals is by long-tail boat, a narrow wooden craft with a loud engine on a long pole. Boats leave from piers near the river, and you can hire one for an hour or two. The boatman steers through side canals, past stilt houses, gardens, small temples and people washing or fishing at the water's edge. Agree the price per boat and the route before you set off, and keep your hands inside the boat in narrow stretches.

What you will see

The scenery changes quickly. Wide waterways give way to narrow channels lined with palms and banana trees, and old teak houses stand on stilts beside modern concrete ones. Monitor lizards sometimes sun themselves on the banks, and children wave from the docks. Small temples and shrines appear around bends, and you may pass boats selling snacks or fruit from the water.

Local communities

Many canal communities still depend on the water for daily life, and some have turned to tourism as a side line. Visit with respect, ask before photographing people and avoid buying from boats that pressure you. A few houses and workshops welcome visitors with demonstrations of traditional crafts, such as puppet-making or fruit growing, and a small tip is appreciated.

Weekend floating market

On weekends, a small floating market on the Thonburi side sells food and drinks from boats and from stalls along the bank. It is far less touristy than the better-known markets outside the city, and the prices are fair. Check the opening days and times, which change, and go early for the best choice of food. Our guide to the floating markets explains the bigger ones.

The Saen Saep commuter boats

For a more local ride, take a boat on the Saen Saep Canal, which runs through the heart of the city. These narrow, fast boats carry commuters from a pier near the Golden Mount to the shopping and business districts to the east, and the fares are tiny. They are a quick way to avoid traffic and see the backs of buildings. Hold on, keep away from the edge to avoid splashes, and step on and off quickly when the boat stops.

Staying comfortable

Boats have little shade, so bring a hat, sunscreen and water, and wear shoes with grip for wet piers. Carry a light rain jacket in the wet season, and a plastic bag for your camera. Mosquitoes can be active at dusk, so a little repellent helps, and a small bag of cash keeps boat and snack payments simple.

When to go

Early morning is the best time, when the light is soft, the air is cooler and the canals are quiet. Midday can be very hot, and the late afternoon often brings rain in the wet season. Weekends are busier, and a weekday gives more peace.

Getting there

The main piers for canal trips are on the Thonburi side, a short ferry ride from the central river piers. Many visitors cross from Wat Arun or a nearby pier, and the Chao Phraya River boats link to them. Taxis and ride apps also work, though traffic can be slow.

What to skip

You do not need to book an expensive tour, and you can skip any boat that does not have a clear price. If you are short of time, a one-hour trip is enough. Back on the east bank, the air-conditioned malls of Siam are a welcome refuge after a hot morning afloat, and our taxi, tuk-tuk and bus guide explains the quickest ways to reach the piers.