Chinatown and Yaowarat

Bangkok's Chinatown is one of the densest districts in the city, mixing gold shops, herbal medicine stores, temples, markets and street food. The Chinese community moved here in the late eighteenth century to make room for the new royal palace, and traders and families have lived and worked here ever since. At night, the main road becomes a river of neon and smoke, and busy crowds fill the alleys.

Yaowarat Road at night

The main avenue, Yaowarat Road, comes alive in the early evening, when stalls set up on the pavement and the crowds arrive. The air fills with the smell of grilled seafood, roasting chestnuts, noodle soups and sweet desserts. Pick a stall with a busy queue and a clear price, and share plates so that you can try more. The street is noisy and crowded, but the food is excellent.

What to eat

Typical dishes include grilled prawns and crab, oyster omelettes, rolled rice noodle soup, braised duck and goose, fried noodles and a huge range of sweets. Mango with sticky rice and sesame balls in warm ginger syrup are favourite desserts. Many stalls sell fresh juices and herbal drinks, and you can end the night with a bowl of sweet soup. For general advice on ordering and etiquette, see our street food guide.

Sampeng Lane

One of the oldest streets in the district is Sampeng Lane, a narrow, crowded alley packed with wholesale shops selling toys, fabrics, jewellery, stationery and party goods. It is hot, tight and very busy, and not for those who dislike crowds, but it is a fascinating glimpse of the trade that built the area. Bargaining is normal, and you should keep your bag in front of you in the thickest parts.

Temples and shrines

Chinatown has several lovely temples. The largest Chinese Buddhist temple in the area has a colourful hall, incense coils and golden statues, and it is especially atmospheric during festivals. A small shrine tucked in an alley may be hundreds of years old. Dress modestly, move quietly and never point your feet at an altar. During the autumn vegetarian festival, the streets are filled with yellow flags and meat-free food.

Talat Noi district

Next to the river, a quieter area called Talat Noi is a maze of old workshops, shrines and shophouses, with a growing number of cafes, galleries and street murals. It is a lovely place to wander in the afternoon, when the light is soft and the streets are calm. Small repair shops, old car parts and tiny temples sit side by side with hip coffee bars.

Timing your Chinatown visit

The best time is early evening, around six, when the food stalls open and the light fades. Weekends are very busy, and some stalls sell out early. For the temples and markets, a morning visit is calmer and cooler. The area is also thrilling during Chinese New Year, when the streets are decorated with lanterns and filled with festival food.

Transport options to Chinatown

The metro station at Wat Mangkon opens on to the main avenue, and a boat pier on the river gives access to Talat Noi and the lower end of the district. Taxis and tuk-tuks can be slow in the evening traffic, so the train or boat is the best option. Come hungry and wear comfortable shoes.

Combining Chinatown with other sights

Chinatown fits well after a day on the river or at the temples, and a boat trip on the Chao Phraya makes a lovely link. The old town and the Wat Pho area are close by for a morning start.

Dishes and items to skip

You do not need to eat at the most famous stall if the line is very long, and you can skip anything without a visible price. Be careful with shark fin and endangered products, which are best avoided.