Taxis, Tuk-Tuks, Buses and the Metro

Bangkok rewards anyone who mixes transport types, because no single option works everywhere. The Skytrain glides above the jams along Sukhumvit and Silom, but it stops well short of the old royal district, where taxis, buses, boats and the odd tuk-tuk fill the gaps. Here we cover everything on wheels that is not the BTS, and when each one earns its place.

Metered taxis

The pink, green, blue and yellow taxis are everywhere, and a lit red sign in the windscreen means the car is free. Ask for the meter by saying "meter, please" before you climb in, and move on if the driver refuses or quotes a flat sum. Have your destination written in Thai, since many drivers know the city by landmark and not by street name. Taxis are at their best in the middle of the day and late in the evening, when the roads move.

Ride-hailing apps

Apps such as Grab fix the route and fare on screen, which removes the arguments and the language gap. They are particularly handy at the airports, at malls and in the rain, when empty taxis suddenly vanish. The pickup point can be confusing around big stations, so message the driver with a landmark and wait inside a shop or shaded entrance, not on the kerb.

Tuk-tuks with a clear head

The three-wheeled tuk-tuk is a loud, open-sided ride and a rite of passage, but it has no meter and the driver sets the fare. Agree it before you sit down, and be wary of anyone who offers a tour of "closed" sights, a gem shop stop or a very short ride at a very odd rate. We find tuk-tuks most enjoyable for a brief hop through the old town and Khao San Road or across the lanes of Chinatown, not for crossing the city. Our safety guide lists the common tricks.

Motorbike taxis

Riders in numbered orange vests wait at the mouth of almost every soi, or side street, ready to take one passenger down long lanes that no car can use. They are quick and a little alarming. Wear the helmet, hold the grab bar, keep your knees in and tell the rider to slow down. Skip them if you are carrying a large bag or wearing a long skirt.

City buses

The network of buses is vast, and the numbers are hard to read for a visitor, but they reach corners the trains do not, including stretches of Charoen Krung and Rama I Road. Pay the conductor, who walks the aisle with a ticket machine, and use a map app to follow your stop. Buses without air conditioning are open to the weather, so expect a hot, noisy ride in the dry season.

The MRT underground

The MRT Blue Line loops through the old centre and passes Hua Lamphong, Sam Yot and Sanam Chai, which brings the Grand Palace area within a short walk or ride of the station. Newer lines extend to the suburbs and to Bang Sue, the main long-distance rail hub. Because the MRT runs on its own tickets, you change to the BTS at Sala Daeng, Asok and Mo Chit using a short walk that is covered but can be long and crowded. Our Skytrain guide explains the interchanges in more detail.

Boats as public transport

For the riverside sights, the orange-flag express boat on the Chao Phraya beats any road. Read about the piers and boat colours in our river guide, and see our canal tours page for the Saen Saep boat, which cuts across the east of the city in quick, splashy stages.

Putting it together

A typical day for us starts with the MRT or a river boat to reach the temples early, switches to a taxi or app when the heat peaks, and finishes on the Skytrain home. Plan journeys outside the morning and evening crush, carry small change for bus conductors and motorbike riders, and keep your phone charged for the map. Arriving from the airport? Start with our airport guide.