Wat Arun

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, is one of the most recognisable landmarks in Bangkok. Its tall central tower, covered in tiny pieces of coloured porcelain and shell, rises above the western bank of the Chao Phraya River and looks different at every time of day. It is quieter than the temples on the east bank, and the view from the river is one of the best in the city.

The central tower

The main tower, known as a prang, is about seventy metres tall and is shaped like a steep, ornate spire in a style borrowed from Khmer temples. The surface is covered in broken Chinese porcelain, which was once used as ballast on trading ships and then reused as decoration. Seen up close, the patterns of flowers and shapes are astonishing, and the way they catch the light gives the tower a glittering quality.

The climb

You can climb the steep steps up the central tower to a viewing platform partway up. The stairs are narrow and very steep, and many people go up on all fours and come down backwards, using the handrail. If you are afraid of heights or have bad knees, you can enjoy the temple from the ground. The view from the platform takes in the river, the old town and the roofs of the Grand Palace.

The name and the story

The temple is named after Aruna, the Hindu god of dawn, and it is linked to the time when the king of Thonburi made his capital here before Bangkok was founded. The present tower was built up in the early nineteenth century by later kings. Smaller towers stand at the four corners, and a hall with a revered Buddha image stands nearby. The temple is a working monastery, so expect to see monks.

Crossing the river

The simplest way to arrive is the small cross-river ferry from Tha Tien pier, beside Wat Pho. The ride takes only a few minutes and costs very little. You can also reach the temple by an express boat or by taxi, but the ferry is the fastest and the most atmospheric. Check the ferry hours, because the last boats leave in the evening.

Sunset and night

The temple is at its most beautiful at sunset, when the tower turns golden against the sky, and it is lit up after dark. Many visitors watch from a riverside restaurant or from a boat on the water. If you want to be inside the grounds at sunset, check the closing time, since the gates close in the early evening. The view across the river from the east bank is a classic photograph.

The dress code and tickets

Cover your shoulders and knees, and take care on the steep steps in sandals. There is an entry fee for foreign visitors, and the temple is open daily. Prices and hours change, so check the official website before you go. Some shops near the gate rent traditional costumes for photographs, which is popular but entirely optional.

When to go

Go early for cooler air and fewer people, or late afternoon for warm light. Midday is hot, and the tower has no shade. The temple is busy at weekends and holidays, but the grounds are large enough to find a quiet corner.

Pairing it well

Wat Arun fits naturally after the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, and a trip on the Chao Phraya River lets you see it from the water. On the same side, the quiet canals described in our khlong guide are a short boat ride away.

What to skip

You do not need to climb to the top, and you can skip the busiest hours. Ignore touts who offer boat trips at inflated prices near the pier.