Joo Chiat and Katong: Koon Seng Road Shophouses, Nyonya Kueh and Laksa

Joo Chiat is a neighbourhood in the east of Singapore, known for rows of pastel-coloured shophouses, Peranakan food and a slower, more local feel than the centre. Katong, its neighbour, adds a seaside history and a few well-known food stops. Both areas were once home to wealthy Peranakan families, descendants of early Chinese settlers who married local Malays and developed their own culture, and the streets still show it.

Why go east?

The centre is polished and busy, while Joo Chiat is relaxed and lived-in. You see everyday life: families at breakfast, schoolchildren after class, grandmothers carrying shopping. At the same time, the architecture is among the most attractive in the city, with detailed plasterwork, coloured tiles and carved wooden doors. The district also lets you fit heritage, food and a short stroll into one afternoon.

The best street for photographs

Koon Seng Road is the street that draws architecture photographers. A terrace of two-storey houses stands side by side, each painted a different colour, with detailed tiles, swing doors and shuttered windows. Visit in the morning for gentle light and fewer people, and remember that these are private homes, so keep voices low and do not block the doors. For more on the style, see the guide to Peranakan architecture.

What to eat

The area is known for Peranakan and Malay food. Look for laksa, a spicy coconut noodle soup that has local variations, nasi lemak, otak-otak, a grilled fish cake in banana leaf, and bite-sized kueh, soft cakes of rice, coconut and pandan. Traditional shops make rice dumplings and sweets by hand, and some sell kebaya and beaded shoes. A meal here suits a slow lunch, and you will find many places that serve a set of small Peranakan dishes to share.

A simple route

Take the MRT to a station near the district and walk to Joo Chiat Road, the main street. Browse shops and cafes, turn into Koon Seng Road for the terrace, then continue to Katong for lunch. Finish with a walk along East Coast Road, or take a bus to East Coast Park for sea air and a late afternoon on the grass. The whole route takes about three hours at an easy pace.

When to go

Morning and late afternoon are best for the light and the heat. Weekends bring more visitors, and some of the traditional shops close on certain days, so check before you go. Rain can arrive suddenly, and the covered walkways in front of the shophouses offer some shelter.

Practical notes

The area is flat and walkable, but a little spread out. Buses and taxis run through the streets, and cycling is common. Respect the residents by staying on the pavement and avoiding loud conversation near houses. If you want to buy Peranakan crafts, look for small shops that make items by hand rather than souvenir stores.

Pairing it well

The district fits well with a visit to the National Museum for background on Singapore's history, or with a trip to the more central streets of Tiong Bahru for a similar mix of heritage and cafes.

A little history

In the early twentieth century wealthy Peranakan families built seaside villas and terraces along this stretch of the east coast, and the sea once lapped close to Katong before land reclamation pushed the shoreline outwards. Joo Chiat Road takes its name from a local landowner and community leader. After the Second World War the area also became home to a large Eurasian community, and you may notice churches, bakeries and clubs that reflect that heritage. The mix of influences explains the food, the buildings and the relaxed local character today.

What to skip

You do not need to visit every shop. Skip the busiest lunch hour if you dislike queues, and avoid blocking the doorways of private homes for photographs.