St. Lawrence Market Guide

St. Lawrence Market is Toronto's great food hall, and it is the best place to meet the city through its stomachs. It consists of two buildings facing each other across Front Street: the South Market, in a large hall with merchants spread over two levels, and the North Market, which holds a farmers' market on Saturdays and an antiques market on Sundays. More than a hundred merchants trade here, from butchers and fishmongers to cheesemongers, bakers and sandwich counters. Markets have stood on this spot since the nineteenth century, and the South Market's building incorporates part of the old city hall.

What to eat

The local order is the peameal bacon sandwich: lean pork loin rolled in cornmeal, grilled and piled on a soft bun, usually with mustard. It is closer to a thick back bacon than to the American crisp strip, and the market's best-known counter draws queues for it. Add a butter tart, a small pastry with a sweet, runny filling that Canadians regard as their own, and a coffee. After that wander: the lower level has more specialist stalls, with spices, olives, pasta, smoked fish and prepared dishes from around the world, while the main floor leans towards meat, seafood and baked goods. A paper bag of cheese and fruit makes a picnic for the park or the lake.

Treat the market as a full meal rather than a quick look. Sharing plates between two or three people means you can try more, and nobody needs a restaurant reservation. For people on a tight budget the market is a strong lunch, as our budget guide explains.

When to go

The market does not open every day of the week, and its opening pattern and holiday closures change, so check the official calendar before you set out. Arriving early on a weekday gives the best chance of walking the aisles and watching the stalls being set up. Saturday is the liveliest day, with the farmers' market in the North Market, but expect crowds and long waits at the best-known counters. If your visit is short, go on a weekday morning and avoid the middle of the lunch rush. In winter the building is a warm refuge, and in summer you can carry your food to nearby benches.

Making a route of it

Combine the market with the streets around it. Our Old Town guide follows the nearby cathedral, the Flatiron Building and Berczy Park, and from the market it is a straightforward walk or a streetcar ride east to the Distillery District. Going the other way, Union Station and the Hockey Hall of Fame are within a short walk, so a morning at the museum followed by lunch at the market is easy to organise.

Upstairs there is a small gallery space run by the city, usually free, which can fill a spare ten minutes. It offers a quiet change from the crowds and a look at local history. Seating is scarce in the main hall, so take your food outside or eat standing at a ledge, and carry a tote bag for cheese, bread or spices to take back to your hotel or apartment kitchen.

What to skip

Do not try to eat everywhere. Pick two or three counters and stay with them, and avoid joining the longest queue simply because it exists; side counters with shorter lines can serve excellent food. Be sparing with souvenirs, which are better bought elsewhere. Large backpacks are awkward in the narrow aisles, so travel light. Cash and cards are both normal, though small independent counters sometimes prefer one over the other. If food is the main reason for your trip, pair this market with the immigrant-run neighbourhood restaurants described in our Toronto food guide, which cover the city's wider cooking beyond the market stalls.