Schwarzsee (2,583 m), Maria zum Schnee Chapel and Hörnli Hut Hike

Directly beneath the eastern and northern walls of the Matterhorn (4,478 metres), the grassy shoulder of Schwarzsee rises to 2,583 metres above sea level. Closer to the base of the mountain than either Gornergrat or Sunnegga, it combines a tranquil lakeside pilgrimage chapel at 2,552 metres with the historic trailhead used by every climber setting out for the Matterhorn's Hörnli ridge.

Riding the Matterhorn Express to Schwarzsee (2,583 m) and Maria zum Schnee

From the valley terminal in the southern quarter of Zermatt, the eight-passenger cabins of the Matterhorn Express gondola, opened in 2002 on the lower sections via Furi (1,867 metres) and extended in 2009 via Furgg to Trockener Steg (2,939 metres) for Klein Matterhorn, reach Schwarzsee station (2,583 metres) in roughly twelve minutes. A short path descends from the station terrace to the 0.5-hectare alpine tarn of the Schwarzsee (2,552 metres). Right on its grassy shore stands the whitewashed stone chapel of Maria zum Schnee (Our Lady of the Snows), originally erected in the 18th century to fulfil a vow by two Zermatt men who lost their way in dense fog on the Theodul Glacier and promised to build a sanctuary if they survived. Before ascending the Hörnli ridge on 13 July 1865, Edward Whymper and his companions paused here on their walk up from the village.

Hiking the Hörnliweg Trail to the Hörnli Hut (3,260 m)

For sure-footed mountain hikers in July, August, and September, Schwarzsee is the starting point of the marked white-red-white alpine trail (Hörnliweg) up to the Hörnli Hut (Hörnlihütte and Berghaus Matterhorn) at 3,260 metres. Climbing 677 vertical metres over 4.3 kilometres (two to two and a half hours each way) via rock steps, steel walkways, and zigzags along the northeast rib, the path brings you to the exact foot of the Hörnli Ridge climbing route. The first Hörnli Hut was built by the Swiss Alpine Club in 1880 with 17 beds, joined in 1911 by the municipality's Hotel Belvédère, and completely renovated between 2013 and 14 July 2015 for the 150th anniversary of the first ascent. Today the solar-powered shelter offers 130 beds for mountaineers (camping is prohibited) and a sunny daytime terrace where hikers can eat soup or Rösti while looking straight up the 1,218-metre rock pyramid above.

Descending via the Matterhorn Glacier Trail or Zmutt

Instead of riding the gondola straight down from Schwarzsee, hikers can follow the 6.5-kilometre Matterhorn Glacier Trail east from Trockener Steg (2,939 metres) past turquoise glacial meltwater pools back to Schwarzsee, or descend from Schwarzsee via the alpine pastures of Stafelalp into the larch woods of the Zmutt Valley (1,936 metres) and back into Zermatt.

Walking these lower connecting trails after visiting the upper ridge gives you a vivid sense of the geological forces that shaped the valley. Along the glacier trail from the upper gondola station down to the lake, retreated ice has left behind polished bedrock slabs, lateral moraine ridges, and mineral-rich meltwater pools where hardy pioneer plants and alpine flowers take root among the stones.

Close-Up Perspectives of the East and North Faces from Schwarzsee

Whereas the eastern viewpoints at Gornergrat and Sunnegga frame the Matterhorn from across the deep trough of the main valley, standing at Schwarzsee places you directly on the green shoulder at the foot of the peak. From the grassy shore beside the whitewashed chapel, your eye follows the long northeast rib straight up to the summit snow crest, while to the right the dark, shadowed precipice of the North Face drops toward the glacier basin below. Even travellers who do not plan to hike the steep mountain path up the ridge find that spending an hour walking around the tarn and sitting on the sunny terrace delivers an immediate, towering sense of scale.

Trail Preparation and Safety on the Hörnliweg Ascent

If you intend to hike the alpine path from Schwarzsee up to the Hörnli Hut, treat the route with the respect due to a serious high-mountain trail. Although the path does not require climbing ropes or glacier crampons during the snow-free summer window described in our climate guide, it ascends steep rocky zigzags, metal grates, and exposed steps where loose stones and sudden temperature drops are common. Wear broken-in ankle-high hiking boots with grippy Vibram-style soles, carry trekking poles if you like extra stability on the long knee-jarring descent, and pack warm windproof layers, water, and sun protection.

Comparing Alpinist History with Today's Ridge Route

Standing on the stone terrace of the hut directly beneath the fixed ropes of the lower climbing pitch brings the displays of the Matterhorn Museum to life. Mountaineers aiming for the summit arrive at the shelter in the afternoon, rest in the dormitory bunks, and set out by headlamp before dawn accompanied by guides who know every rock step along the ridge. Daytime hikers should watch the sky and start their walk back down to the Schwarzsee gondola well before the final afternoon cabin departure to the valley.

For walkers who prefer a gentler afternoon descent from Schwarzsee without tackling the steep rocky climb to the upper hut, the pastoral path winding down through the meadows of Stafelalp into the quiet western valley of Zmutt offers continuous close-up views of the overhanging northern ice cliffs and the roaring glacial stream below. Pausing at a wooden hamlet terrace along the way for a plate of regional cheese or cured meat turns the descent into a relaxed half-day mountain walk back to the southern edge of the village.

Inside the tiny whitewashed chapel of Maria zum Schnee beside the tarn, cool stone walls and simple wooden pews offer a quiet moment of shelter where mountaineers and hikers have paused for centuries before or after walking the ridge. Step lightly around the shoreline meadows to protect the fragile alpine turf, and check our three-day itinerary for tips on pairing Schwarzsee with a morning ride up to the upper glacier platform. Early morning gondolas from the southern edge of town bring you to the lakeshore when the water is still and the upper ridge stands sharp against the morning sky.