NoLo

NoLo stands for North of Loreto, a name invented around 2013 by residents in playful imitation of New York neighbourhood names such as SoHo. It describes the area north of Piazzale Loreto, around Via Padova, Viale Monza and Via Venini. For decades this was a working-class district with a large immigrant population and a rough reputation. Today it is one of Milan's most creative and diverse neighbourhoods, with independent cafés, small galleries, community projects and some of the most varied food in the city.

How NoLo came to be

The neighbourhood changed through the efforts of its residents. A local Facebook group, a community radio, street markets and festivals brought people together, and artists, designers and young families moved in, attracted by lower rents and spacious old apartments. The district has kept its mixed character, with long-established Milanese families living beside communities from North Africa, South America, Asia and Eastern Europe. That combination gives NoLo its energy.

Via Padova

Via Padova, the long street running northeast from Loreto, is the backbone of multicultural Milan. Its shops and restaurants reflect dozens of nationalities: Egyptian bakeries, Peruvian grills, Chinese supermarkets, Senegalese tailors and Italian bars stand side by side. Walking its length is an education in how the city has changed over the past generation. The atmosphere is lively and local, with very few tourists.

Cafés and squares

Piazza Morbegno is the social centre of NoLo, a small square with trees, benches and cafés where neighbours meet. In the streets around it, independent coffee shops, bookshops, natural wine bars and small restaurants have opened in former workshops and shops. Murals and street art decorate many walls, some created during neighbourhood festivals. The district hosts open-air events, markets and concerts in the warmer months, organised by residents' associations.

The Martesana canal

On the northern edge of NoLo runs the Naviglio della Martesana, the canal that once linked Milan with the river Adda and Lake Como. Its towpath is now a long cycling and walking route lined with old villas, gardens and trees. We like to follow it for a stretch, especially on a sunny weekend morning, when cyclists, runners and families fill the path. It shows a gentler side of the canals than the busy Navigli to the south.

Eating in NoLo

NoLo is one of the most rewarding places in Milan for adventurous eating. Alongside the international restaurants of Via Padova, there are modern trattorias, pizzerias, craft beer bars and bakeries. Many places are small, informal and run by young owners. The evenings are relaxed, and an aperitivo here feels very different from one in Brera. For an introduction to Milan's wider food scene, see our Milanese food guide.

Respect the local pace

NoLo is first of all a residential area. Its appeal depends on the ordinary life around its cafés and streets, so we keep noise down late in the evening, do not walk into private courtyards and ask before photographing people or shops. Like any lively city district, it calls for normal attention to belongings at night.

Markets and festivals

Neighbourhood life in NoLo revolves around its markets and community events. A weekly street market fills the area around Viale Monza with stalls of fruit, vegetables, clothes and household goods, and food markets with local producers appear in the squares. In summer, residents' associations organise festivals with music, food stalls and film screenings in courtyards and gardens. These events give visitors a chance to meet the neighbourhood rather than only pass through it.

Our view

NoLo is for visitors who want to see contemporary Milan beyond the postcards. We spend an afternoon walking Via Padova, sitting in Piazza Morbegno and following the Martesana canal, then stay for dinner. Metro M1 stops at Loreto, Pasteur and Rovereto, and M2 at Loreto. It pairs naturally with Porta Venezia, a short walk south along Corso Buenos Aires, and makes an interesting contrast with the polished towers of Porta Nuova.