French Concession Guide

If you only have time for one neighbourhood walk in Shanghai, make it the former French Concession. From 1849 until 1943 this was a separate district governed by France, and the streets still carry the stamp of that era in their plane trees, garden villas, apartment blocks and corner cafes. It is the calmest part of the city centre, with low buildings, shaded pavements and a more human scale than the towers across the river.

A short history

The French settlement began as a small strip beside the old Chinese city and grew in several stages until the early twentieth century. It attracted a mix of residents, from French officials and Russian émigrés to Chinese intellectuals, artists and businessmen. The plane trees that shade the main avenues were planted during this period, and many of the villas and apartment blocks date from the 1920s and 1930s. The concession ended in 1943, but the streets kept their layout and, to a surprising degree, their character.

The streets to walk

Start with Wukang Road, which is the best single street for villas, small shops and the famous flatiron building. Anfu Road and Yongfu Road are lined with cafes, boutiques and wine bars, and they are at their best in the afternoon and early evening. Hengshan Road is a wider avenue with tall trees, restaurants and nightlife, and it is a pleasant place to end the day. Do not hurry, because the pleasure is in the side lanes and gates.

Houses and gardens

The district holds several former homes of famous people, and a few are open to visitors. The former residence of Soong Ching-ling and the house of Sun Yat-sen are both in the area, and they show the lifestyle and the politics of the early republic. Fuxing Park is a French-style garden where local people dance, play cards and practise tai chi, and it is a fine place to rest. Opening hours and entry rules change, so verify before you go.

Coffee, lunch and dinner

The French Concession is Shanghai's coffee district, and a long walk is easily broken up with a flat white or a pastry. For lunch, small restaurants serve everything from dumplings and noodles to Italian, Japanese and modern Chinese dishes. Dinner is more upscale, with wine bars and tasting menus, and reservations are wise at weekends. For a local meal, our Shanghainese cuisine guide helps you pick dishes.

Biking and walking

The district is flat and the streets are wide, so a bike or an electric scooter can be an easy way to cover more ground. Rental bikes are widely available through apps, but you may need a local number or a payment app, so plan ahead. If you walk, aim for about three hours and wear comfortable shoes, because the pavements are uneven in places.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the best seasons, when the trees are green or golden and the air is mild. Summer is hot and humid, so walk in the morning or early evening and use cafes as air-conditioned stops. Winter is damp and grey, but the bare branches make the villas easier to see.

Getting there

The district is served by metro lines 1, 7, 9, 10 and 12, so you can start almost anywhere. Shaanxi South Road is a convenient hub for the middle of the area. If you are short of time, a taxi between the main streets is cheap and quick.

Pairing it well

The neighbourhood links well with Tianzifang and Xintiandi, which are both on its eastern edge, and with the lane houses described in our shikumen guide. For a change of pace, the nearby Art Deco buildings add architecture to the stroll.

What to skip

You do not need to see every named street, and you can skip the busiest brunch spots at weekends. Do not photograph private homes through gates, because many villas are still lived in.