Hangzhou and West Lake Guide

Hangzhou is a city built around a lake, and the lake is one of the most admired landscapes in China. West Lake has inspired poets, painters and emperors for a thousand years, and it was named a World Heritage cultural landscape. A high-speed train from Shanghai gets you there in about an hour, so a full day is enough to enjoy the water, the hills and the tea.

Travel from Shanghai to Hangzhou

Trains leave from Hongqiao railway station and reach Hangzhou in roughly an hour. Book tickets ahead through the official app or at the station, and bring your passport. Most visitors arrive at Hangzhou East station, which has a metro link and plenty of taxis, and the lake is a short ride away. See the return train time before you start the day.

The lake and its causeways

The lake is ringed by hills and crossed by two famous causeways, each named for a poet who served as a local official. Walk or cycle along the willow-lined paths, stopping to look at lotus beds and pavilions. A small stone bridge at the end of one causeway is linked with a famous legend of a white snake. The scenery is gentle, and the pleasure is in strolling, not rushing.

Boats and islands

A boat trip is a highlight, and wooden boats leave from several landings. A boat takes you to a small island with a famous pavilion and pools that reflect the moon on autumn nights. Choose a quiet time, because the lake is busy at midday, and take a boat early or at dusk when you can manage it. A modest fare covers a loop and a stop on the island.

Pagodas and temples

The slender Leifeng Pagoda on the south shore is a famous landmark, and it was rebuilt, with a lift to the top for a view. Lingyin Temple, west of the lake, is one of the oldest and most important Buddhist temples in China, with large halls and carved cliffs. Visit in the morning, when the incense hangs in the cool air, and dress modestly.

Longjing tea

The hills around the lake produce Longjing, one of China's most famous green teas. Several villages offer visits to tea fields and small tea houses where you can taste the leaves in a garden setting. Spring is the best season, when the first leaves are picked, and prices for new tea are high. Our tea guide explains how to enjoy tea and avoid tourist traps.

Food in Hangzhou

Local dishes are light and fresh, with freshwater fish, shrimp and vegetables. A famous dish is fish cooked in a sweet and sour sauce, and another is shrimp cooked with tea leaves. A slow braised pork, named for a poet, is another favourite. Restaurants near the lake are pricey, so walk a few streets away for a better value meal.

Making the most of a day

Plan on a full day, with a morning on the lake and an afternoon at a temple or in the tea hills. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and mist and light rain make the lake particularly romantic. Summer is hot and crowded, and public holidays are very crowded, so avoid them where possible. Bring comfortable shoes, an umbrella and water.

Combining trips from Shanghai

Hangzhou combines naturally with a stay in Shanghai, and with a second trip to Suzhou for its gardens. If you want a quieter lake, consider an overnight stay near the water, and see the lake at sunrise before the crowds arrive. A day in Zhujiajiao is a shorter alternative.

Sights to leave out of a tight schedule

You do not need to see every sight, and you can skip the big tourist boats at midday. Do not try to combine Hangzhou with Suzhou in a single day.