Wukang Road Guide

Wukang Road is a short street with a long reputation. It runs for little more than a kilometre through the heart of the French Concession, and in that distance it packs in an extraordinary number of old villas, apartment blocks and quiet courtyards. It was once named Route Ferguson and got its present name in 1943, and today it is the best place in the city to feel the old residential Shanghai in a short, easy walk.

Wukang Mansion

The building everyone photographs is Wukang Mansion, a curved flatiron-shaped block at the junction with Huaihai Road. It was finished in 1924 as the Normandie Apartments and was designed by the architect László Hudec, whose name appears all over Shanghai's Art Deco and early modern buildings. Its prow-like corner looks like the bow of a ship, and the building is still partly residential, so people live behind those curved windows. Admire it from across the street and keep your voice down near the entrances.

The villas

Much of Wukang Road's charm comes from the garden houses behind its walls and gates. Many were built in the 1920s and 1930s in a mix of Spanish, English and French styles, with tiled roofs, balconies and generous gardens. A number have been restored as cafes, galleries or boutiques, while others remain private homes. Look for the details, including carved doors, iron balconies and old house numbers.

The writer's house

The former home of the novelist Ba Jin stands on the street, and it is a quiet reminder that this was also a home for writers and artists. Opening hours for historic houses can be limited, so see ahead if you want to go in. Even if you only pass the gate, it helps to know that the neighbourhood has long been loved by people who work with words and ideas.

Coffee and snacks

The street is lined with cafes and bakeries, and a loop with a few stops is an easy way to spend a morning. Weekends are busy, so expect queues for the most photographed spots. If you want a quieter break, look for a side lane or an upstairs room, which are often calmer than the places facing the street.

Taking photographs

The classic shot of the flatiron is taken from the corner across the road, and a short zoom lens helps you fill the frame without standing in traffic. Early morning is best, before the cafes open and the pavements fill. Never step into the road for a better angle, because scooters and delivery bikes come fast and quietly around the bend.

When to go

Weekday mornings are the calmest time and the light is flattering on the buildings. Late afternoon is lovely in spring and autumn, when the trees are at their best. Avoid weekend afternoons if you dislike crowds, and note that the street is popular with photographers and wedding shoots.

How long to allow

The street takes about thirty minutes to walk end to end, but most visitors spend an hour or two with stops. Add time if you plan to visit a historic house or sit in a cafe. It combines easily with Fuxing Park and with a longer stroll through the streets to the east, where the villas thin out and the streets become busier and more commercial.

Getting there

The nearest metro stations are Shanghai Library, Hengshan Road and Changshu Road, each a short walk or a short taxi ride from the street. If you are coming from the Bund, a taxi through the French Concession is a pleasant way to arrive.

What to skip

You do not need to cross every road to see every villa, and you can skip the queues at the busiest cafes. Do not climb fences or enter private gardens for photographs, because residents have asked visitors to keep out. If you prefer a lively scene, Tianzifang offers a busier alternative nearby.