Fuxing Park Guide

Fuxing Park is a small, formal garden in the heart of the former French Concession, and it is the best place in the city to see how Shanghai spends its leisure time. It was laid out in the early twentieth century as a French park, and its straight paths, clipped hedges, flower beds and tall plane trees still have a European look. Its name means revival, and it is now one of the liveliest public spaces in town.

A French garden in China

The park opened to the public in 1909, when the area was under French control, and it was designed in the formal style of a French garden. The layout has a long central axis, a pond, a fountain and neat parterres of flowers, and the trees and lawns frame the paths. Over the decades the park has been renamed and altered, and it now mixes the original French pattern with Chinese pavilions and rockeries.

Morning life

The best time to visit is early morning, from about seven to nine, when the park fills with residents. Groups of retirees practise tai chi and sword forms, others dance in pairs to old-fashioned music and some sing together under the trees. Others walk backwards for exercise or stretch against tree trunks. It is a warm and friendly scene, and it shows the daily rhythm of the neighbourhood better than any museum.

Afternoon games

In the afternoon, the park becomes a living room for older residents. Groups gather around card tables and chess boards, and onlookers crowd round to watch and comment on every move. It is a lively scene, full of banter, and visitors are welcome to watch quietly. If you are invited to join a game or a dance, you can accept, but it is fine to politely decline.

Flowers and sculpture

The flower beds change with the seasons, with bright displays in spring and autumn that draw photographers. There are also sculptures and monuments, including a statue of two famous political philosophers, which reflects the park's modern history. Check what is in bloom if you plan a visit for photographs, and go on a clear morning when the light is best.

Etiquette

The park belongs to the people who use it, so be a considerate guest. Ask before you photograph individuals, and avoid pointing cameras at close range at people dancing or exercising. Keep your voice low, do not block the paths and stay out of the way of the groups practising. A smile and a nod usually go a long way.

Entry and hours

Entry has been free in recent years, and the park opens early in the morning and closes in the evening. Hours and rules can change, so confirm before you go. Toilets are available, and a few cafes lie just outside the gates. Pets and bicycles may be restricted, so look at the signs.

Getting there

South Huangpi Road station on line 1 and Xintiandi station on line 10 are both close, and the park is an easy walk from Xintiandi. It also sits beside the main streets of the French Concession, so you can add a stroll along Wukang Road afterwards.

Pairing it well

A solid plan is an early morning in the park, a late breakfast in a nearby cafe and a stroll through the lanes. For a different kind of green space, Century Park in Pudong offers lakes and open lawns on a much larger scale.

What to skip

You do not need to see the whole park, and you can skip it in heavy rain. If you cannot visit in the morning, late afternoon is the next best time for card games and a quieter garden.