People's Square Guide

People's Square is the geographic and civic centre of Shanghai, a large open space that holds a park, a handful of major cultural buildings and the city's biggest metro interchange. Most visitors pass through it without noticing how much history lies underfoot. In the nineteenth century this was a racecourse run by the foreign settlement, and after the 1950s the land was turned into a park and a public square. The old track is long gone, but the sense of open space remains.

What stands around the square

The south side is anchored by the Shanghai Museum, with its round top and square base. Nearby are the Shanghai Grand Theatre, a modern glass hall used for opera, ballet and musicals, and the Urban Planning Exhibition Hall, which holds a giant scale model of the city and is a fun way to see how large the metropolis has become. Verify opening times before you go, because exhibitions change and some halls close on set days.

People's Park

The park beside the square is a pleasant green space with ponds, paths and benches, and at the right time of day it is one of the best places to watch local life. Retirees play cards and chess, groups sing and practise tai chi, and families wander the lakeside paths. A small contemporary art museum sits inside the park, and the cafes around the edges are a calm place to rest tired legs.

The weekend marriage market

Each weekend, parents gather in a corner of People's Park to advertise their unmarried adult children. Sheets of paper with age, height, job, education and sometimes income are pinned to umbrellas or laid out on the ground, and parents compare notes and negotiate. It is a striking sight and a window into Chinese family life, and it is also a private matter for the families involved. Watch respectfully, ask before you photograph anyone and never take pictures of the sheets without permission.

The metro hub

People's Square station links lines 1, 2 and 8 and has a maze of exits and underground passages that can be confusing. Look at the exit signs carefully before you climb the stairs, because the wrong exit can leave you on the far side of a wide road. There is also a large underground shopping area that is handy on rainy or hot days.

How long to allow

The square is a solid stop of one to two hours, or half a day if you add the museum. It is easy to link with Nanjing Road, which starts at the square and runs east toward the river. Weekday mornings are calm and suited to photographs.

With children

The park is a handy place to let children run, and the ponds, paths and open lawns are easy to enjoy at their pace. The planning hall's giant city model is often a hit with older children, who like to find their own neighbourhood among the tiny towers.

Nearby Art Deco buildings

Several fine buildings from the 1930s stand along the edge of the square, including a tall hotel and a former cinema, both designed by the same Hungarian-Slovak architect. They deserve a glance on your way through, and the Art Deco guide explains more about the style and the people behind it.

Getting there

Take metro line 1, 2 or 8 to People's Square. It is the easiest place in the city to reach, and it is also a fine place to change trains. Taxis can drop you at the edges of the square, but traffic can be heavy in the evening.

What to skip

You do not need to see every hall around the square, and you can skip the exhibition halls if the weather is fine and the park is calling. If you are short of time, look at the museum and walk through the park, and leave the rest for a second visit.